Flourish Forum
General Categories => Tools & Supplies => Topic started by: Erica McPhee on October 27, 2013, 12:23:03 AM
-
I started off with the Hunt 101 and 103 when I learned spencerian and then copperplate in 1993. Then I scored a box of 100 vintage Hunt 56 nibs. Those nibs were a dream. Hardly any bad ones in the batch, they sailed across the page. I wish I had purchased all 4 of the boxes that were available then. But I couldn't possibly see myself going through 100 nibs. HA!
I could have used those boxes many times over. Now I use the newer nibs. My favorites are the Nikko G's for less bold, but sharp, smooth thicks and thins. If I want to do a little softer and bolder, I like the Hiro 41.
I recommend trying out a variety of nibs so you can find your favorites. These two nibs may not be your faves but they just sing for me. What are your faves?
NOTE: The Hiro 41 has had production problems recently. They seem to be better but take a little bit of wearing in.
-
I quite like the Zebra G, and I think it's a popular one. A little more flexible than the Nikko, but I'm a fan of that one too.
Though for me it's very sharp, I'm getting used to the Leonardt Principal extra-fine too. Nothing at all like those smooth, sturdy G series nibs, but I'm starting to love it for the very expressive thicks. I'm becoming a little less heavy-handed than I used to be...
-
I started pointed pen with the Nikko G and Zebra G, and I have tried many nibs since! I have a pretty varied collection, but the one that I love and use by far the most is the Brause 511. It just suits my touch and style so well!
-
Joy, I'm glad you said that... I found it the opposite with the Nikko and Zebra but maybe I mixed them up. I'll have to do a test again.
Lisa, I've never tried that one! I'm going to have to put it on my next order!
-
When I've compared the Nikko G and Zebra G, what I've found (and I'm sure this could be personal to my hand) is that the Zebra is sharper/more pointed, so it gives finer lines, while the Nikko is slightly more square-cut. I think the Zebra is just a bit more flexible, but it does seem to me, though, that the Nikko is more elastic/"snappier"...it seems to give a sharper transition from thick to thin, which I think could be attributed to being more elastic, or maybe to the slightly squarer cut? They are both so nice and smooth, though...it's amazing how fine they are while still being so smooth-writing!
-
Great observations! You gave me an idea! I'll have to do a comparison sheet of different nibs and share it on the forum!
-
:) I started with a Hunt 512, then a Nikko G. The Nikko G was fantastic, but I also ordered 9 new nibs from Paper Ink & Arts. Haha, I'm still trying all of them out, but so far I am LOVING the Brause 66EF and the Brause Rose. Both of them give nice thick lines, but are pretty forgiving on the upstrokes too. (I still need to work on being lighter-handed).
-
Hi Sherry!
I also enjoyed using the Brause 66EF! I always like trying new nibs and even going back to ones I used in the past. I find it adds a different dimension to my lettering. And for whatever reason at various points (get it), some nibs are my favorite and then it will switch. I think it has more to do with my energy and the heaviness or lightness of my hand and the style at the time.
Keep us posted on the new ones you try and which ones you like.
-
I prefer the Zebra G to the Nikko as I find I have to exert so much more effort when using the Nikko G. I'm getting used to the Leonardt Principal as well, and Brause 66EF is a go-to, especially for copperplate. The best by far are vintage nibs which I really try to use for as long as I can before discarding as I hate to see my supply dwindle little by little. Hah.
Thanks for suggesting the Brause 511, Lisa, I will try that!
-
I agree Eileen! I practically cried when I ran out of my last box of vintage Hunt 56s. I stopped using the Brause 66EF a few years back as it seemed like every single one I tried would skip. Perhaps I just had a bunch from a bad batch and I should try them again. Seems everyone really likes them.
-
Where do you buy them at? Since Im totally new to this what should I look to spend?
-
Great observations! You gave me an idea! I'll have to do a comparison sheet of different nibs and share it on the forum!
I would appreciate something like that!
-
Nibs can be bought from John Neal, Bookseller or Paper & Ink Arts. There are links in the resources board:
http://theflourishforum.com/forum/index.php?board=15.0
Vintage nibs can sometimes be found on Ebay.
-
My favourites so far are the Nikko G and the Brause EF66. I just started out and bought about 30 different nibs to try, since they aren't very expensive :D
-
my fav nibs right now are:
brause 66 ef
zebra G
hiro 41
i have tried a few of the Hunt nibs, the leonardt, a couple others and for whatever reason either i could not work past the nibs catching on the paper (Hunt 303,404) or couldn't get the ink to flow whatsoever (that one with the rose, i think it's a brause).
-
I ran out of EF66s this weekend so I decided to try a new nib. I had ordered a couple, based on reccommendations, but I just could not get them to work back then (sounds like such a long time ago, it was actually only a couple of months ago). But this weekend I tried one of them again - the Gillott 303 - and I'm amazed! Such thin hairlines, I love it. Might be my new favourite!
I think I also couldn't work with it because I didn't have the muscle control I needed for the gentle upstrokes. But now I'm so happy I "graduated" to this nib. Anyone else using it?
-
That is great! Yes, I find the 303's do take a bit of control but can also work quite nicely. I used them years ago. Every once in awhile I try a nib I haven't used in a bit and I am pleasantly surprised.
-
Hi Erica,
I'm having a hard time with the Hiro 41 nib. It just isn't holding any ink, and I can't even finish one letter without the ink running out (literally). The Nikko is just fine and I can write half a sentence before re-dipping. Any thoughts on what's up with my Hiro nib? Thanks!
-
Hi!
It is kismet you should write this today. I also had this problem today with my newest order of Hiro 41 nibs. Five out of seven of them would do exactly as you describe. I suspect the manufacturer changed the coating but I don't know if that is the case. I have put in a message to John Neal and he is going to try to help problem solve.
I will keep you posted. I'm really glad you asked because it helps to know others are experiencing similar issues.
-
Oh my goodness, so glad it's not just me!! I thought I was doing something wrong with it, haha. Look forward to hearing an update, thanks!
-
The Hunt 101 works well for me at the moment; the 303s, not to mention the Leonardt Principal are a bit twitchy for this clumsy writer. I also have a taste for old nibs: current favourite is the fine Brown's Shoulder Pen which loosens up admirably after an initial running in period.
-
I went on a buying spree on ebay before my first calligraphy conference and ended up with tons of cool looking nibs. While taking the spencerian class with Jake Weideman, he said his favorite was the Estabrook 357. I asked him if he would look through my stockpile of vintage nibs and to see if I had it. I was so excited when he found some brand new ones. They don't make them anymore - not sure how old they were, but in perfect condition. So for now, that's my favorite:)
-
so many nibs; so little time ;D
-
LOL Jenny! That is great luck. I also like the Estabrook 357s. I cried a little when I used my last one.
Andy, I like the bounce of the 101s. I also like the 303s but yes, they do tend to skip. :)
-
I've just read through this interesting and informative thread.
I regularly use the following nibs, amongst others :
Gillott 303
Hunt 101
Esterbrook 357
Leonardt Principal EF
The above discussion got me thinking, and I've just realised that when I'm involved in a piece of writing, unless I look at it specifically, I usually can't tell which nib I'm writing with!!
I must be particularly insensitive! I like them all. ;D
Ken
-
sisterofdream :
In reply to your question......
(https://theflourishforum.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi226.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fdd289%2Fcaliken_2007%2FGillott303600.jpg&hash=d9d756c0e4a59e43662f4901722aa3a0)
-
I received my nibs today( nikko g and leonardt extra fine principal) I had only had a few min. each with each nib. So far my impressions are I have a new favorite nip the principal. The nikko g is identical to the tach. g nib to me at least in appearance. It writes very similar to the tach. But the principal thats something else. I have been studying with Reggie Ezell online with his Italic class the last couple of days, so not much pointed pen practice.
Anyway can someone tell me what and why there is a little brown piece of paper with all my new nibs. Am I suppose to be using it for something? I keep forgetting to ask.
-
Hmmm... no idea! The Nikko G takes a little wearing in and then it goes much smoother. Glad you like the Principal!
-
My two very very very favorites are the Nikko g and the Hunt 101. Erica is right it takes breaking it in. I usually do a bunch of drills with it when it's new.
-
My current favorites pretty much what Ken mentioned
Vintage Esterbrook 357 (my go to nib)
Gillott 303
Along with the Brause 66 EF and tomorrow i'll be ordering a Leonardt Principal and Brause Rose (among other's I've yet to try) to see how I like them.
-
My favorites are
1. Gillott 604EF (use this 95% of the time)
2. Musselman Perfection Red
3. Musselman Perfection Blue
4. Leonardt Principal EF
5. Esterbrook 358
-
My favorites change all the time - currently it's the vintage Hunt 22. Beautiful fine hairlines. I had the opportunity to purchase a sealed box of various vintage Hunt nibs, it was like Christmas!
I recently found a Spencerian #1 at the flea market for $1 but I don't want to use it :-\
-
Hi!
My favorite nibs right now are the Brause 66Ef, Esterbrook 358. I recently purchased the Hiro 41 to try but I could not get ink to flow from that nib, if will flow somewhat but not enough at times to finish a letter, is this normal? I ordered two and try the two to not avail. A shame since I love the flexibility of the nib. Anyone has had that same experience?
Ana
-
Hi Ana,
Yes, I saw you found our other post about the recent problems with the Hiro 41. :( I hope we find some solution to fix them soon or the next batch isn't bad. They were my favorite nib!
-
For letters and fine spencerian writing, I like Gillott 604EF and Leonardt Principal.
For thicker writing or envelopes, I like Brause Rose, Nikko G or Brause 66EF.
-
My favourite nib is a french one : the Départementale Cementée 2552 that provides thin hairlines. The tins are hardened by adding caarbon to the steel.
I found two boxes of 144 nibs in french ebay, I have nibs for my whole life ;D
These nibs have a little inconvenient: they are too long, and need a very large flange, to have the point in the axis of the holder.
(https://theflourishforum.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.gravure-couteaux.info%2FPenholder%2Fdepartementale.JPG&hash=647c3ba3d632fea3da20f36b9df23fdc)
-
Thats cool Jean. Good fine!
-
Too bad there isn't much info out there on nibs other than US and English.
I've seen French and Soviet nibs on eBay, and had wondered how good they are.
Without knowing the nib, is there a way to know or estimate what a nib can do by how it looks?
I am thinking long tines, long slit = ability to flex the tines more.
But some of the short ones flex also.
-
That is a good question Gary. I'd be interested if anyone has any opinion on this as I've always been surprised by what a nib produces. :)
-
The flex of the nib is determined by four things...
The thickness of the steel itself
The amount (width) of steel attaching the tines to the base of the nib
The temper of the steel
The actual alloy composition of the spring steel
These are all things which you would be unable to determine without actually trying to flex the nib unfortunately.
-
That is a good question Gary. I'd be interested if anyone has any opinion on this as I've always been surprised by what a nib produces. :)
I started by reading the "Tips on Nibs" articles by BoB Hurford.
http://www.iampeth.com/lessons_getting_started.php
But the nibs in his articles are primarily US and English, a few French.
It would be nice for someone in Europe to do a similar review of the European nibs.
I see French nibs pop up on eBay and Etsy, and it would be nice to something about them so I could determine if I want to bid on them or not.
But Bob categorizes the bowl nibs as mono-line writers. However, I have been able to get a slight about of flex out of them so my general writing is not a boring mono-line that looks like my fountain pens.
-
It would be nice for someone in Europe to do a similar review of the European nibs.
... Bob categorizes the bowl nibs as mono-line writers. However, I have been able to get a slight about of flex out of them so my general writing is not a boring mono-line that looks like my fountain pens.
I can certainly run through a variety of vintage European nibs if there's an interest, but it'll take a while to arrange photos.
Truly monoline dip nibs seem to be rare beasties if my experience is anything to go by. There are plenty which are intended to be used as such, but very few which are firmer than a semiflex fountain pen nib. Waverleys, for instance, (with the turned up nose) were clearly designed with ease of writing on mediocre paper in mind rather than expressiveness, but once they've broken in they'll produce a fairly heavy shade if pushed - and spring back nicely. Bowls are definitely amongst the stiffer patterns, but they're not like nails. Stumpy little nibs like Wing Commanders are about the stiffest I've found ... they're generally italics anyway.
I don't think you can tell at a glance if a pen is going to flex easily, because as Christopher pointed out metallurgy and thickness are important factors. There are one or two promising signs though: long tines with deep slits on either side (which relates to Christopher's second point), and fancy eyelets both bode well. The real proof of the pudding only comes after a nib has been used for a while.
-
I'm reviving this thread for a few reasons. First, the Hiro 41 problem... nuff said but I need to retire it and stop getting frustrated. I'm putting in an order for nibs. Second, I know that nibs for the oldies are trendy to try. Which are you currently loving?
-
There are one or two promising signs though: long tines with deep slits on either side (which relates to Christopher's second point), and fancy eyelets both bode well.
On that note... I would suggest giving the Hiro Blue Pumpkin a try - it has both fancy eyelets, a bowl, and long tines. It is the sister (or brother) nib to the Hiro 41. I used to really like it. Of course, it's made by the same company so there is no guarantee they don't have the same problem.
I also liked the Hunt 56 and Gillott 303s.
-
... I would suggest giving the Hiro Blue Pumpkin a try
Does it have a number, Erica? I'm guessing that it's marketed here as the Leonardt Shorthand Nib No40 (http://www.jandtsartandcalligraphy.co.uk/online-shop/proddetail.php?prod=LeonardtStenoDP40BL), and resembles a Brause 361 Steno.
-
I don't want to speak for Erica but I believe it is indeed The Shorthand Nib Code: DP40. I have this nib and it is very interesting looking nice blue, unfortunately I can not get it to work. Not because I think it's bad because of my lack of experience.
-
@Erica, I don't know why that sister/brother thing cracked me up but it did!!
-
Yes - that's the one. Brad, it is a bit tricky. I found they were erratic - some the tines were split unevenly. But about 10 years ago, pre-Nikkos, there weren't many great options. It was a whole lot more difficult learning with some of the trickier nibs.
Those twin Hiros, Daisy, they are naughty! ;D
-
I just tried the Hiro 41, after fixing the ink problem. (see http://theflourishforum.com/forum/index.php?topic=562.45 reply #47)
It is an amazing nib. THANK YOU Erica.
It flexes with so little effort that I have to try to NOT flex the nib.
And it does not snag, bite or dig into the paper (so far). Perfect for a novice like me.
Now I wonder, why did I buy all the vintage nibs when I could have just bought the Hiro 41 ? And at 60 cents each, it isn't expensive either.
Erica, your recommendation for supplies for a beginner is spot on. I wish I saw that before I started my collection of nibs.
-
And at 60 cents each, it isn't expensive either.
*sigh*. Best price I can find here is £0.80, about $1.34. I won't even mention how much Principals cost in the UK. I'm beginning to think seriously about importing British nibs back from the US as an economy measure. >:(
-
Hmmm... no idea! The Nikko G takes a little wearing in and then it goes much smoother. Glad you like the Principal!
Erica
Dumb question, does this mean that the tines will flex easier?
Then how much wearing in and how do I write to wear it in? I think you mean, applying some pressure to get the tines to spread a bit.
Being a novice, breaking in a nib is something that I have to learn.
Thanks
-
Hmmm... no idea! The Nikko G takes a little wearing in and then it goes much smoother. Glad you like the Principal!
Erica
Dumb question, does this mean that the tines will flex easier?
Then how much wearing in and how do I write to wear it in? I think you mean, applying some pressure to get the tines to spread a bit.
Being a novice, breaking in a nib is something that I have to learn.
Thanks
The tines will flex slightly more with time but don't expect much without switching to a nib with more flex.
-
Is anyone here using the Brause Steno aka Blue Pumpkin nib? I just tried it and I love it. The funny thing is that I cannot write with the Hiro 40/Hiro Steno nib. It is toooo flexible x_X
-
Hmmm... no idea! The Nikko G takes a little wearing in and then it goes much smoother. Glad you like the Principal!
Erica
Dumb question, does this mean that the tines will flex easier?
Then how much wearing in and how do I write to wear it in? I think you mean, applying some pressure to get the tines to spread a bit.
Being a novice, breaking in a nib is something that I have to learn.
Thanks
The tines will flex slightly more with time but don't expect much without switching to a nib with more flex.
Thanks Heebs.
Makes sense now that I think about it, and having used the Hiro 41.
I was just under the impression that the G nibs would flex.
-
Gary, you may get different answers for this from different people, but I personally find the Nikko G much stiffer than the Zebra G. Zebra G is sharper and more flexible. They both flex, but won't give you super-dramatic shading.
-
oh i just received the blue pumpkin steno nib and i'm liking it. i don't LOVE it like the Hiro 41, but it's a good replacement. and agreed, the Hiro 40 just would not work for me. skipped and blobbed out ink.
with the Hiro 41 out of the lineup...my current favs are:
-blue pumpkin
-brause ef 66 (just got a holder for this nib after slicing my hand with a screwdriver trying to adjust a flange...never again)
-leonardt 30 for white and gold ink.
and i'm still trying to love the brause 76 rose. i love the thicks but it's just so finicky sometimes it's great, other times not.
and i also have ONE Hiro 41 left. it's almost spent...i only use it if i really really need a smooth nib. i'm gonna cry when i have to toss it. actually i might just preserve it in a block of acrylic and put it on the shelf next to our late dogs ashes... :(((((
-
Erica
Dumb question, does this mean that the tines will flex easier?
Then how much wearing in and how do I write to wear it in?
I usually do a few warm ups (about a page or two) or just practice for a bit and then the nib is nicely worn in. It has a sweet spot. Then it writes for quite some time and finally becomes scratchy again without recourse (worn out).
The Nikko G's are definitely stiffer than the Hiro 41s but I like them quite a bit. Once worn in (not out), they give a nice thick and maintain a very crisp thin.
I'm glad you like the Hiro41. Now if we can just get them fixed! I find them so easy to use and I love the thicks it produces. Also, rarely skips. :)
-
actually i might just preserve it in a block of acrylic and put it on the shelf next to our late dogs ashes... :(((((
Ahaha :D I like the picture of that.
-
I have a few pen points, but for my script, I only ever use the Gillott 303s. I find that they don't skip after breaking them in.
Since I have some Principals coming my way - how can I expect the transition to be between the 303 and the Principal? Do they respond similarly? How about the G points - Zebra and Nikko?
-
I can only tell you the principles are very flexible and fragile. The Nikko is very stiff. Just my 2 cents
-
The principality is much closer to the 303 than the Nikko or Zebra, slightly stiffer than than the 303 and not as sharp but it's just as good.
-
I can't go past the Leonardt EF Principal personally ... I have a stash of Gillott 303s and 404s, Esterbrook 357 and 358s, and of the Nikko, Zebra and Tachikawa G nibs. All of those are acceptable, but for my best work I love the Leonardt EF.
I find the Nikko/Zebra/Tachikawa nibs great for envelopes and things that need sliiightly less sharp and sliiightly thicker hairlines, though. They can produce a really good result, but there is not as much flexibility and that makes my hand hurt after a while!
-
How do the 404s compare to the 303s?
Can I expect the same hairline thickness / quality from the Principal as I would from the 303?
Thanks for your input!
-
I prefer the 303s, but I think I may be alone in this - conventional wisdom seems to be that the 404s are a little stiffer and better for copperplate? But I would almost always prefer a 303 (if I can't get a Principal).
They are very cheap, which is a positive, but I also find that I get more than the usual amount of mis-cut slits (tines off-centre, etc) in brand new 303s than in any other type.
With the Principal, I find it's a lot better in hairline quality than anything else on the market (superior to the 303, but not by much; far superior to the Nikko/Tachikawa/Zebra G set) and it's also more flexible just by nature of being a bigger nib, so outperforms it there. They are fairly similar in feel, in spite of the difference in size/shape.
Obviously all this is specific to my inexperienced hand and may be completely different for you - but I would recommend trying the Principal, just because I love it.
-
Lovely. Exactly what I wanted to hear. I'm about to place an order of about 15 points, 5 of which are Principals. Enough for a summer?
-
What Moya said is pretty spot from my experiences although I find nothing beats the hairlines of the 303 (just slightly thinner than the Principal) however they do come with some of the worst quality control of any mass produced nib (cant complain for the price). The 303 is about as sharp as it gets and is often used to force you learn having a light hand as it will catch on upstrokes with anything but the lightest touch.
5 should be good enough to start you off.
-
I agree strongly with the above concerning the 303, based on fairly short acquintance. It's a very high performance pen (assuming you've got a good one), but hellish twitchy. By comparison the Principal feels more dependable, and doesn't have the same tendency to dig into the fibres and pole vault the pen across the desk. I exaggerate, slightly. ;)
The hairlines seem just a smidgen finer with the 303, and the break in time is negligible. The Principal is now my default nib, but I won't be abandoning the Gillott.
-
Lovely. Exactly what I wanted to hear. I'm about to place an order of about 15 points, 5 of which are Principals. Enough for a summer?
Depends how much you write ;) And how heavy your hand is!
I go through Principals faster than anything else, but that's because I use them in preference to anything else most of the time. I agree with Andy and Heebs re the 303 and Principal, too (except on hairlines, but I reckon that's more my heavy-handedness than the pen itself).
Let us know how you go :)
-
Will do. I think I'm too used to the 303 hairlines to settle for anything perceptibly thicker... I can anticipate trying to grind the edge of the Principal point. I will only murder one.
-
Hey, if you hate them, there's plenty of people here who'll take them off your hands ;)
I think you'll like them though.
-
I have been having problems with the hunt 104, i am not sure if its the paper or the nib itself but the hunt 104 doesnt glide as smoothly as i expect it to (like for the hunt 101 one)
-
I just looked up that point - tiny! Probably suitable for monoline or small, lightly shaded script due to its short tines. See this review!
http://www.beepily.com/2011/03/testing-a-bunch-of-pen-nibs/
The author mentions that it is very 'snaggy' and 'fussy'. TBH I'd expect that from a point that small and skinny. Your Hunt 101 is probably much better suited for regular pointed pen work. Were you writing with the 104?
-
I agree with uQ, it also happens to be quite a sharp nib so i'd expect it to be up there with the 303. It shouldnt be extremely scratchy though, unless it's gone bad.
-
I just looked up that point - tiny! Probably suitable for monoline or small, lightly shaded script due to its short tines. See this review!
http://www.beepily.com/2011/03/testing-a-bunch-of-pen-nibs/
The author mentions that it is very 'snaggy' and 'fussy'. TBH I'd expect that from a point that small and skinny. Your Hunt 101 is probably much better suited for regular pointed pen work. Were you writing with the 104?
well i was trying to lol i am an ultra noob to be honest, i love 101 but somehow i cant get the hang of loading it up with ink
-
I just looked up that point - tiny! Probably suitable for monoline or small, lightly shaded script due to its short tines. See this review!
http://www.beepily.com/2011/03/testing-a-bunch-of-pen-nibs/
The author mentions that it is very 'snaggy' and 'fussy'. TBH I'd expect that from a point that small and skinny. Your Hunt 101 is probably much better suited for regular pointed pen work. Were you writing with the 104?
well i was trying to lol i am an ultra noob to be honest, i love 101 but somehow i cant get the hang of loading it up with ink
Are you referring to loading up the 101 with ink? Have you removed the protective coating on it? (I use a toothbrush + baking soda based toothpaste). What ink are you using?
-
Rubbing alcohol does the trick, too. There are several ways to prepare the point for writing.
If loading is still an issue, note that you want just enough ink on there... Too much and you get a pool under the tip which can slide right onto your work. Too little and you can't finish a swell without your point depositing all that ink into a single spot. I like to dip it to the point where the breathing hole is covered up. Some people will load their0 point with a brush. Might want to try that too.
-
I'm trying out the Leonardt EF Principal and it's fantastic. Thanks for recommending it.
-
Sue, I love the EF Principal :)
Incidentally, I know it's also Jake Weidmann's preferred nib - or at least, it was when he was teaching our flourishing class. So we're in good company.
-
Moya, yay! I'm new to this and am trying out different nibs and am so pleased with the EF Principal. :) So far I've tried the Hunt 101, the Gillott 303, the Hiro 41 and 40 and the Zebra G. My Gillott catches quite a bit on the upstroke and on closer examination, I see that my nib's a little off. Dang it!
-
You know, I never got a gross of the 303s. This probably means that the five or six that I ordered from JNB were hand-picked, and he'd never hand pick a lemon for me, right? I think that would be a neat trick. Just order a few, and maybe request that they be examined beforehand.
-
Thanks for the tip ultraquiche. I ordered just one 303 from PIA amidst a host of other nibs.
-
I'm a beginner and I found myself loving how easy it is to manipulate a 66EF :) I also joined a workshop recently (La Bella Scrittura!) and they made me realize that G nibs are actually friendly. One of my ates (big sister in the Philippines) also agreed that Vintage Hunt 22 writes so nice ;D
-
I'm a beginner and I found myself loving how easy it is to manipulate a 66EF :) I also joined a workshop recently (La Bella Scrittura!) and they made me realize that G nibs are actually friendly. One of my ates (big sister in the Philippines) also agreed that Vintage Hunt 22 writes so nice ;D
For some reason I went straight to the 66EF when I began and became addicted to the swells it can create, I primarily use the Principal now but I find myself going back to the 66 quite often. I almost feel like starting with the 66 ruined the G nibs for me ::) I'm addicted to the flex on the smaller nibs but it sure is fun to use those G nibs as well.
-
I get really good results with the G nibs, mostly because they're a little less pointy and a little easier to flourish with - the shakes never seem to show up when I can swirl that fast! So I tend to use them for finished work or for larger work. I'm addressing envelopes with a Tachikawa G at the moment.
But ... I don't think they help me develop my skills at all. The EF is definitely harder to use, but more rewarding, and I enjoy using it more. And when I get into the swing of it, my work is much more beautiful with the EF - finer hairlines, and more control over the swells.
But definitely harder.
-
New favourite I finally got to try:
- Leonardt Principal EF
So the list of faves is ever-growing ... they now are:
- Brause EF66, for writing big
- Leonardt Principal EF
- Hunt 101 for writing fast
- Gillott 303 for perfect square cutoffs and fine Copperplate
- Brause Steno, for a more loose, modern, bouncy style
-
New favourite I finally got to try:
- Leonardt Principal EF
So the list of faves is ever-growing ... they now are:
- Brause EF66, for writing big
- Leonardt Principal EF
- Hunt 101 for writing fast
- Gillott 303 for perfect square cutoffs and fine Copperplate
- Brause Steno, for a more loose, modern, bouncy style
Currently enjoying the Leonardt Principal EF too! There's something about that nib! ;)
-
I don't like G nibs. I started out with Nikko G, and I have a light hand, so I had to press down pretty hard to get swells, think I wore the nib blunt and didn't realise it. After some frustration with bad blobs and really awful hair lines I hunted down a few leonardt principal EFs, uncertain if I'd like them. I got another Zebra G, which was nicer than Nikko, but still too hard for me.
One morning I tried principal ef with dr martin's bleedproof white as per Schin's suggestion.
OMG.
Angels sang.
I can do calligraphy now. LOL
Happy, I decided to dig more money out of my pocket to get extra principals. Then I saw Hiro blue pumpkin Hiro 40. They don't have hiro 41, but I bought them too (they were all like 3 bucks each, so it's pricey!) and I also got a leonardt copy nib and they're now my fav nibs! I can't get brands like brause, Hunt (the flexi ones), Gillott from shops here so I guess I'll take my time to try what I have out.
-
Lol! Welcome to the fold Faeleia! The Nikko is a good nib for plain Spencerian I feel, but it doesn't flex very well for the purposes of really shaded writing. If you like the Principal, you may also like Brause Rose, Brause 66ef or vintage nibs (God help you!) like Esterbrook 358 or vintage 303.
-
Thanks for this thread! Since I'm a super newbie, it's great to hear what everybody else is using. I bought a sampler from John Neal so I was able to try many of the ones on peoples' lists.
Cannot do upstrokes with the 303. Maybe that will come in time. I bought an oblique holder fitted for it so I thought that was wasted for now, but I managed to fit the 404 into the holder and that works great!
Also loving the 66EF. Planning on ordering an oblique holder for that one too.
Want to try the Hiro 41 so that'll go on my next order as well. Looking forward to trying it out!
-
I've only been writing a month, but have been trying out different nibs every few days. Over the weekend I tried the Hunt 101 and I think that is my favourite so far for ease of writing & the thick / thin contrast.. It seems it's impossible to catch on paper on upstrokes.. and produces thick swells and a thin hairline (especially when writing fast, which is impossible (for me) with certain other ultraflexy nibs). Heavenly!
-
I learned copperplate using the Nikko G but my favorite is usually the Brause 66 EF. It's so not scratchy and easy to use.
I've had a bunch of 66s that were cut oddly with visibly uneven tines and/or the slit in the front connecting at one corner of the side of the eye.
Would the latter affect the wear?
In any case it's a good excuse to try out new nibs.
-
Yes, it can. I enjoy the Brause EF 66 but find them very unreliable and find I go through them very quickly. With that said, they make a beautiful thick and thin. But an uneven cut on any nib can make it either not work properly or wear unevenly.
-
I learned copperplate using the Nikko G but my favorite is usually the Brause 66 EF. It's so not scratchy and easy to use.
I've had a bunch of 66s that were cut oddly with visibly uneven tines and/or the slit in the front connecting at one corner of the side of the eye.
Would the latter affect the wear?
In any case it's a good excuse to try out new nibs.
I have a bunch of 66s that are uneven too. I still use them, though I write with them at an angle. I suppose it will be good with an oblique holder (a good excuse to shop for more supplies. haha).
My favorite nibs are Esterbrook 357 and Brause ef 66. Close contenders would be the 358 and the Leonardt principal (it's just so expensive!).
-
I have tried the 604 EF and i like it very much. Unfortunately, it doesn't seem to be easily available for me anyways. Are they vintage? :<
-
I have tried the 604 EF and i like it very much. Unfortunately, it doesn't seem to be easily available for me anyways. Are they vintage? :<
Yep and they're some of the hardest to get ahold of :/ up there with the Principality variations. I still want to try one but the prices are always so high on ebay.
-
604 EF is similar to Spencerian 1, just a little more flexible. It's so expensive these days ugh
-
My all time favorite nib was a spencerian 5 that I found in a local antique store in a little baggie with a bunch of crusty used nibs. For whatever reason that nib was unused and a DREAM. I lettered 1000 envelopes with that nib, no exaggeration before it gave out. Wish I'd had a whole box of it. But for day to day use I use an Esterbrook 358, mainly because I have a lot of them. Haven't tried any of the Hunts, or the EF66, which has been recommended to me extensively. Guess I'll have to get on that.
-
The spencerian 5 had recently replaced the 358 in the semi flex category, great nib. Picked up half a dozen on ebay the other day for a good price.
-
oooh, I should check ebay for those in the future too. Thanks for the tip!
-
Watch for the box of assorted drafting pens (356, 357 and 358).
At one time there were a few people selling a box for about $35. Looks like right now, no one is selling the box.
-
The lady who was selling those sold out, she brought her remaining stock to IAMPETH this year to unload the last 100 boxes she had.
-
I'm new to calligraphy (I have been doing this on my spare time for about two months now), and I still feel like I haven't found the right nib for me.
I'm currently using a Nikko G and a Brause Steno, and between the two I always get fibers sticking out my tines with the Nikko. I also find the Nikko too hard to handle, like it wouldn't follow my lead. This leaves me very frustrated most of the time.
I fail at using the oblique pen, but with a speedball handle and the right angle I feel more comfortable with the Steno. However sometimes when I put pressure on the nib, I end up digging into the paper :'(
I also received a Sirt nib, a gift during a pen meet, and its a vintage nib that I find wieldy.
I have realized that I have a heavy hand and I tend to be anxious and uncertain with my thin strokes. I know that part of my difficulty lie with being a beginner, but can anyone who can recommend a good nib that will let me get a good contrast with thick and thin strokes?
-
There's a couple of ways to go about this but it sounds like you have to get some better paper. A lighter hand will help as well but if the Nikko is picking up fibers the paper is likely also contributing and its an easy fix.
Some people prefer using a really sharp nib such as the Gillott 303 in order to train themselves to have a light hand. The 303 snags on practically any paper if you don't use a light touch so it forces you to avoid too much pressure.
There are also exercises you could try, someone else might be able to help with that as I'm terrible with those.
-
Some people prefer using a really sharp nib such as the Gillott 303 in order to train themselves to have a light hand. The 303 snags on practically any paper if you don't use a light touch so it forces you to avoid too much pressure.
I was one of those people: it certainly taught me a lot but you can expect a good deal of consternation to start with. Because the nib is very flexible and the hairlines so fine, the 303 is definitely a high performer in terms of contrast, but for shades of constant width as in conventional copperplate it won't make life easy.
I'd say it's worth adding a couple to a nib order since they're so cheap - even if you find them unbearable to write with, going back to an easier nib will be a blessed relief and your touch will have lightened up, guaranteed.
-
Unfortunately I've always had trouble with Nikko G and Zebra G nibs :( I don't find them flexible and I hate it when they make that scratchy sound on paper. I know a lot of people love these nibs..... I've been researching on various nibs that produce good thick and thin lines. Any advice ?
Regards,
Afreen.
-
The Leonardt Principal is the modern standard for large thicks and fine hairlines in one but it is a sharp nib so it will scratch without a light touch. If you want smooth and large swells with hairline thins you'll likely have to locate some vintage nibs. Practicing a lighter touch and adjusting your nib angle can help with the scratching though as well as selecting the right paper.
The new Titanium Zebra G's are really nice too, they flex as much as the regular Zebra but seem smoother to me.
-
The new Titanium Zebra G's are really nice too, they flex as much as the regular Zebra but seem smoother to me.
Just wondering how much longer the titanium nibs last compared to the regular--in your opinion, are they worth the price difference??
-
The new Titanium Zebra G's are really nice too, they flex as much as the regular Zebra but seem smoother to me.
Just wondering how much longer the titanium nibs last compared to the regular--in your opinion, are they worth the price difference??
I've actually been using a lot lately, I normally dislike the G nibs but this is quite pleasant to use but from what I understand they should last up to 4 times as long as a regular Zebra. Since a regular one runs about $2, if you get 2-3 times as much use out of this then it seems worth it. I'll have to go back and test both Zebra's tonight but the Titanium one has been smoother than the original but it might be that I haven't used that one enough--i'll let you know when I do a comparison after work.
-
The Leonardt Principal is the modern standard for large thicks and fine hairlines in one but it is a sharp nib so it will scratch without a light touch. If you want smooth and large swells with hairline thins you'll likely have to locate some vintage nibs. Practicing a lighter touch and adjusting your nib angle can help with the scratching though as well as selecting the right paper.
The new Titanium Zebra G's are really nice too, they flex as much as the regular Zebra but seem smoother to me.
I'll try the Leonardt Principal and the Titanium Zebra G and see if it works. Thank you for helping out! :-)
-
I'm with Heebs on the Titanium G. They are very smooth to write with. I did a quick comparison of the various G nibs on my IG yesterday.
-
I've just had a note in from Blots pens and ink about the Titanium Zebra G coming into stock towards the end of January. I'm definitely going to give it try!
-
I've been trying out Gillot 1950 lately and liking it very much. Not too stiff nor too flexible. It's easy to square tops and bottoms :)
Everyday use are:
- Hunt 101
- Zebra G (for white and colored inks)
-
Uuuugh. I have found my favorite vintage nib out of the huge lot that I've gotten to try lately and what sucks is that while I do have a good handful of them (16), I can't find them online at all which means they're probably pretty uncommon. Esterbrook 528. So fits my hand and the amount of pressure I like to use perfectly. Not too springy and not too stiff.
-
Uuuugh. I have found my favorite vintage nib out of the huge lot that I've gotten to try lately and what sucks is that while I do have a good handful of them (16), I can't find them online at all which means they're probably pretty uncommon. Esterbrook 528. So fits my hand and the amount of pressure I like to use perfectly. Not too springy and not too stiff.
Try PM'ing Penstaff (Harvey). He has a huge collection and might have some for sale.
-
My favorite nib these days is Vintage Gillott 303, given to me by Schin! :-* :-* LOVE it!! Thank you Schin! :-* :-*
My fav ink is Walnut ink. The combination of Vintage Gillott 303 & Walnut ink is amazing! <3 <3
-
I'm with Heebs on the Titanium G. They are very smooth to write with. I did a quick comparison of the various G nibs on my IG yesterday.
Does PIA sell the Titanium G ? I can't find in which section. I only see the the Zebra G.
btw, just followed your IG, lovely profile ! :)
CH
-
Does PIA sell the Titanium G ? I can't find in which section. I only see the the Zebra G.
No, they don't, but JNB does.
-
Does PIA sell the Titanium G ? I can't find in which section. I only see the the Zebra G.
No, they don't, but JNB does.
Alright thank you ! :)
-
Initially my go to nibs were my Brause 66EF, then I got myself a Zebra G and that's the one I use for everything now <3
-
Initially my go to nibs were my Brause 66EF, then I got myself a Zebra G and that's the one I use for everything now <3
I hope that when i get it, it'll also suit me. Waiting everyday for the package ! XD
-
As for now my favourite nibs are:
1. Hunt 22b (It has fine hair lines and I really like it)
2. Nikko G ( A really friendly nib, easy upstrokes and downstrokes)
3. Hiro 41 (very durable)
4. Brause 66EF (good hairlines, and nice flex. My favourite)
These are nibs I use more often.
-
My favourites change all the time, but the standards for now are Hunt 56, Hunt 101, Brause EF66 and the smoothest the lovely Hiro 41. Wish I could find a finer nib that wrote as smoothly as that does. For tiny writing I love the Esterbrook 351. :)
-
Hello! This is a nice thread! My favorites as of the moment:
Biagnol and Farjon 2346
Blanzy 552 and 2252
Spencerian no 1 and 2
Sirt Pen 2129 - but I could not find any of these anymore :(
Hiro 41
Those are my happy pills!
-
Up until a week ago I'd only ever used a Zebra G, and thought that was fine. Then I got a free Leonardt Principal with some Blots ink and now I think I've been ruined forever!!
The Leonardt died yesterday when it started sticking badly on upstrokes (seemed to go very quickly, do they have a short life??) and I now have 10 more on order ::) I can hear my bank manager weeping at the price difference!
-
I'm an avid Nikko G user but also like the EF 66 and the Gilliot 303.
I tried the Leondart Principal for the first time yesterday but it just keep opening up and drying up real quickly. Does anyone have any pointers?
I'm using Higgins Eternal ink.
Thanks
-
The Brause Rose 76 nib has had a fairly bad press as a nib with starting-up problems. If you are experiencing this difficulty, I suggest persevering with it, as the ink will eventually flow properly. When it has settled down and is working well, it is a very responsive nib with a good ink capacity and respectable amount of swell. As you can see in this small clip, even when writing slowly, it is as smooth as silk with no irregularities, producing fine, even hairlines - one of the great pointed nibs IMHO.
https://youtu.be/Sbe2l8N1glY
-
The Brause Rose 76 nib has had a fairly bad press as a nib with starting-up problems. If you are experiencing this difficulty, I suggest persevering with it, as the ink will eventually flow properly. When it has settled down and is working well, it is a very responsive nib with a good ink capacity and respectable amount of swell. As you can see in this small clip, even when writing slowly, it is as smooth as silk with no irregularities, producing fine, even hairlines - one of the great pointed nibs IMHO.
https://youtu.be/Sbe2l8N1glY
I guess perseverance has its virtues but in my case, I have not been able to do anything whatsoever with the Rose. Lovely handwriting as usual, Ken.
-
For more on the wrangling the Brause Rose (much more), make yourself a pot of tea, put your feet up and enjoy this video by Schin:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5rVo3jTBfhk
-
Alright, it can be hard to say I have ABSOLUTE favorites. I'm always willing to try new nibs, although I think I'll shy away from vintage nibs (it's hard to fall in love with nibs that may be gone any year). But here are my top 5's and reasons why. For the most part I like smooth nibs that don't swell or blot too much because I use notebook paper a lot and sometimes it can bleed quite terribly. For example, the notebook I use right now is college rule pilot (it bleeds slightly with broad edged pens, faintly to the back but never to next page). So, here we go:
1) Leonardt 26580. This nib is smooth and fairly fine. It has a tendency to swell, but if you pressure it very lightly it won't at all. I almost hold as if it were a brush more than a metal nib. However the knocks it has against it are: I can't find it anywhere but on Leonardt nib sets, it doesn't fit standard speedball nib holder, and since it is small it doesn't retain ink for a long time.
2) Leonardt 111EF. This nib is stiff and doesn't swell much, however it feels awful on paper. I hate how this nib scratches on the paper I use.
3)Hunt 512 EX-Fine. I love the smoothness and stiffness of this nib. I think it's a good beginner nib for fine point caligraphy, it was the first nib I used practice my copperplate script. It has no swells and an minimal bleeding. However it will bleed through on some paper.
4) Hiro/Leonardt No.41 "Crown nib". This is a looser version of the Hunt 512 to me. Like the hunt 512 it writes thicker #1-2 and will swell better than the hunt. I love it's feel on paper though.
5)Hunt 101 Imperial. This I got from a speedball calligraphy set for Roman/Itallics along with the 512. I think this is the very smoothest nib I've tried along with #1. However it will swell nicely with the right pressure. I however always try to make to where it swell minimally so it doesn't waste ink and cause bleeding much.
So these are my favorite. However I do every day writing on paper with these, not lavishly flourished copperplate/Spencerian scripts with these. I may want to use different tools for those. And well I'm still discovering what I like.
-
Too bad there isn't much info out there on nibs other than US and English.
I've seen French and Soviet nibs on eBay, and had wondered how good they are.
I have a few old soviet nibs, and I do not think it's a good choice. The main reason is lack of flexibility. They are well hold the ink, but to regulate the thickness of the line is very difficult.
Soviet nibs are good for graphics, drawing, design works. But not for calligraphy.
I prefer Leonardt Steno Shorthand.
-
I started with Nikko G and Zebra G two months ago when I caught the copperplate calligraphy
fever! I liked the Zebra G better in the beginning as I found the Nikko a little too sharp and snagged
a lot on the paper. I have very light hand and couldn't seem to get the proper thickness on my
letters so a friend of mind recommended that I try Brause 66Ef and I have been in love with this
nib every since. I do believe that once we get a little better with plenty of practice, we
find the good characteristics of each nib. Little by little, I am liking the Nikko G and Zebra G again.
-
Today I've received my purchase - Gillott 303. This is fantastic! I was sure that the instrument don't depends much. I was wrong. These strokes I could not get any of those nibs that came across to me before.
It seems that I've got new favourite nib.
-
The Brause Rose 76 nib has had a fairly bad press as a nib with starting-up problems. If you are experiencing this difficulty, I suggest persevering with it, as the ink will eventually flow properly. When it has settled down and is working well, it is a very responsive nib with a good ink capacity and respectable amount of swell. As you can see in this small clip, even when writing slowly, it is as smooth as silk with no irregularities, producing fine, even hairlines - one of the great pointed nibs IMHO.
https://youtu.be/Sbe2l8N1glY
Ken, beautiful sample as always.
The curves of upper loops on the B and the R are different in your sample (where they meet the downard central line). Are they meant to be different? Most samples I've seen seem to suggest similar upper loops for these letters. If they are not meant to be different, which is the kind of the upper loop that you would suggest? I have been trying to get the second one (as shown in your R) but I find it far easier to get the upper loop like in your B.
Sorry, I don't know the technical terms of these strokes yet!
-
i am using Hunt 56 and i am wondering if it is really "scratchy". i can hear the scratch it does on the paper when writing, and i am not sure if it is just me (too much pressure, wrong angulation of nibs etc) or something is wrong with the nib.
any thoughts on the matter will be very helpful. :)
-
I love the Hunt 56. It may be that particular nib. The newer ones, especially, can have the occasional misfit. I've also found inks can have a great impact on "scratchiness."
Is it just loud, or is it the "feedback" too?
-
i am using Hunt 56 and i am wondering if it is really "scratchy". i can hear the scratch it does on the paper when writing, and i am not sure if it is just me (too much pressure, wrong angulation of nibs etc) or something is wrong with the nib.
any thoughts on the matter will be very helpful. :)
I just got myself a Hunt 56 and found it too scratchy. I don't know if it's my beginner's hand or a faulty nib. Wishing for a list of scratchy nibs out there so I could steer clear!
-
Not sure if you were using a new one, or just got a bad one. I've used a bunch of vintage 56's and they've all been quite good. Not quite as "easy" as a Zebra G but definitely much more flexible. I've not tried any of the modern Hunt 56's, so can't comment on their quality.
-
Not sure if you were using a new one, or just got a bad one. I've used a bunch of vintage 56's and they've all been quite good. Not quite as "easy" as a Zebra G but definitely much more flexible. I've not tried any of the modern Hunt 56's, so can't comment on their quality.
Mine was new, bought from a stationery shop. I imagine not vintage?
-
@AAAndrew it's a very loud scratching sound. i've continued using it since i don't have any other nib at the time, after a few pages of drills the scratchy-ness is not so noticeable anymore. i'm thinking it just need "breaking in", :D and i think this is not vintage.
@unscripted hang in there, use it for a couple of pages and see if the scratchy-ness disappears. mine did.. i hope it's the same with your nib. :)
-
I have so many favorite nibs...
For modern nibs I'm a big fan of zebra G titaniums, leonardt principle EF (though man they get expensive since they're quite delicate), Leonardt 111EF, and the Brause 66EF are all nifty for different reasons. Honorable mentions include Brause 76 Rose, Brause 361 Blue Pumpkin, Hunt 101 and Gillott 303's (which would've made the top list except that quality control is sometimes an issue.
For vintage nibs though...
A ton of the French Nibs are good,
Eagle Pencil Co E370, E470, and E410 are exceptional to me,
Esterbrook 128, 354-358 (all of the art and drafting are nice), 818, and A1 are all great
Old Gillott 303, 404, 603EF, 170, and 291
Old Hunt 101, 22, and 56 are all essentially better versions of the modern ones- fantastic nibs. Less well known writers I like are the 3, 5, 47, 54, 60, 86, and 95 (which is the only falcon nib I've liked so far- it's a tiny "lady falcon"). Another standout to me is the x-21.
Spencerian Pen Co. 1 is a well known great. I'm also a fan of their 2's and 5's.
Palmer nibs all serm to be good- though I haven't tried many besides the 9.
-
I've tried the Palmer 3 and that's too big for an oblique holder big but very flexible!
-
Here's another unusual nib, but if you can find it, it's a lot of fun. It is a smaller spoon-shaped nib with a tight waist and a turned-up tip. The tip makes the line more towards the wide side of "fine", but the nib is quite flexible with a nice spring-back action. It's no wet-noodle 303 with tiny hairlines and massive spread, but it is MUCH easier to write with and a great medium-level performance nib for writing on difficult papers what would catch other, finer nibs. And it's just small enough you could probably make it work in an oblique. It's almost perfectly identical to another rare nib, the Turner & Harrison 211. But I'm sure other similar nibs were made by others. So, keep an eye out for copycats.
-
Update: I have no tried the palmer 3, 5, and 7. All have very good response, line variation, and are somewhere between medium and medium-stiff. Of them I find the Palmer 5 to be particularly outstanding (as is the 9).
Andrew, I ended up passing on a bunch of gold plated federals that I was called about two weeks ago. At the time I had not recieved my Macniven Cameron Waverlies yet and had no experience with any of the upturned point types with some flex- if only I had known...
-
That could have been the bunch I have now. The pictures looked kind of gold-ish, but it was just bad lighting. There may have been a gilt version, as Esterbrook would gold-plate anything you wanted, if you ordered enough nibs, but I've not heard of any.
They're quite rare, actually in any finish. Phil, the guy who runs the Esterbrook Project has never seen one. (which is saying something.) I sent him one of mine so he can add to the photos on his site. And as I said before the 717 and the Turner & Harrison 211 are almost perfectly identical down to the "L"-shaped side slits. The T&H is a tiny bit smaller, but not by much. Both are lots of fun.
-
I used to not like the 2552 (forgot the maker) but now I am obsessed!!! Bidding on a box right now!
-
I used to not like the 2552 (forgot the maker) but now I am obsessed!!! Bidding on a box right now!
oh, that's YOU, is it???
[meekly steps back] I can't beat you at this game, you can have them. This time.
-
Bidding on some Gilbert & Blanzy-Poure Departmentale 2552? Make sure it's not from that guy in Albeilhan, France. The big box (not the tin) is for 552's not 2552's. They are not the same nib, although he may say they are the same.
-
Anyone else watching the bidding of a box of Spencerian no 1? Current bid price USD365 ;D
http://www.ebay.com/itm/262286715114?_trksid=p2060353.m1431.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
-
Anyone else watching the bidding of a box of Spencerian no 1? Current bid price USD365 ;D
http://www.ebay.com/itm/262286715114?_trksid=p2060353.m1431.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
Sure, although the S#1 is my go to nib for general work, I have enough for the time being and won't be bidding on this lot.
The current price is excellent, if the box were full. Were I to bid on them, though, I would ask the seller to count them. Looking at the box and saying it looks full or almost full is not exact enough at this price level. In my experience, I've never seen an unsealed box contain the full amount. Counting a single box one by one isn't that much of a chore.
However, a good approximation can be made if you have a jewel's scale (say measures in 1/1000th oz) by weighing 10 of them and then weighing the whole lot to deduce the total number. Takes about 15 seconds.
-
A couple of weeks ago a mostly full box was up for auction and I "watched" it just to see what it did. I didn't bid, and it went for $20. Not sure if it was a "New York" only lot, but I think it was in one of the blue boxes. Sometimes someone gets lucky. It also taught me to at least throw in a bid if I'm at all interested. [sigh]
-
Moya: You wouldn't want them anyway, turns out the box is from a disreputable seller! Argh! I just hope I get outbid!
AAAndrew: Did you say a box of Spencerian 1s sold for $20???
-
Moya: You wouldn't want them anyway, turns out the box is from a disreputable seller! Argh! I just hope I get outbid!
AAAndrew: Did you say a box of Spencerian 1s sold for $20???
Can't you just cancel your bid, or is the end date too soon?
-
A couple of weeks ago a mostly full box was up for auction and I "watched" it just to see what it did. I didn't bid, and it went for $20. Not sure if it was a "New York" only lot, but I think it was in one of the blue boxes. Sometimes someone gets lucky. It also taught me to at least throw in a bid if I'm at all interested. [sigh]
Interesting. I didn't see that. I did a world wide search of completed listings and the only one that came close was a listing for 5 nibs without the pictured box. Do you remember the title of the listing? Still in your watch list?
-
It's not. They weren't labeled as Spencerian No 1 in the eBay listing. I'm trying to remember the wording, but when you looked at the listing, it was most definitely the Spencerian Ivison Phinney Double Elastic box and nibs. The seller had it in some vague calligraphy, like "writing supplies" or something and didn't include any of the key words even "Spencerian." I seem to remember stumbling upon them when just surfing through some category and didn't think too much about it. Now I wish I had kept it in my watch list. I was shocked when it went through with just one bid.
Speaking of lost "opportunities" I did follow, and still have in my watch list, the Victorian Gillott's salesman's sample set that went for almost 1500 GBP, which is about $2100. Gorgeous! Way too rich for my blood, though.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/VICTORIAN-ANTIQUE-SALESMAN-SAMPLE-DIP-PEN-NIB-STATIONARY-SET-GILLOTTS-PATENT-/231821449997?nma=true&si=0oqgMEkAed7A756kzPafDRw%252FvdM%253D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/VICTORIAN-ANTIQUE-SALESMAN-SAMPLE-DIP-PEN-NIB-STATIONARY-SET-GILLOTTS-PATENT-/231821449997?nma=true&si=0oqgMEkAed7A756kzPafDRw%252FvdM%253D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557)
Andrew
-
It's not. They weren't labeled as Spencerian No 1 in the eBay listing. I'm trying to remember the wording, but when you looked at the listing, it was most definitely the Spencerian Ivison Phinney Double Elastic box and nibs. The seller had it in some vague calligraphy, like "writing supplies" or something and didn't include any of the key words even "Spencerian." I seem to remember stumbling upon them when just surfing through some category and didn't think too much about it. Now I wish I had kept it in my watch list. I was shocked when it went through with just one bid.
Speaking of lost "opportunities" I did follow, and still have in my watch list, the Victorian Gillott's salesman's sample set that went for almost 1500 GBP, which is about $2100. Gorgeous! Way too rich for my blood, though.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/VICTORIAN-ANTIQUE-SALESMAN-SAMPLE-DIP-PEN-NIB-STATIONARY-SET-GILLOTTS-PATENT-/231821449997?nma=true&si=0oqgMEkAed7A756kzPafDRw%252FvdM%253D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/VICTORIAN-ANTIQUE-SALESMAN-SAMPLE-DIP-PEN-NIB-STATIONARY-SET-GILLOTTS-PATENT-/231821449997?nma=true&si=0oqgMEkAed7A756kzPafDRw%252FvdM%253D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557)
Andrew
OMG. I want that set so bad.
-
Anyone else watching the bidding of a box of Spencerian no 1? Current bid price USD365 ;D
http://www.ebay.com/itm/262286715114?_trksid=p2060353.m1431.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
Followup:
With a few hours to go, current bid $520.
I also asked the seller how many are in the box, and he did a quick count and said 118, although a few may be stuck together and uncounted.
-
I tried first with nikko G an then bunch of vintage nibs that i didn't like. And then i find hunt 101. So flexible yet fine hairline. I also tried the LP too. It gave me almost the same result with 101. After a few recommendations, i tried blanzy 2552 and the esterbrook 357. Though it's hard to find, i'm quite liking it. The 2552 for me practicing OP and the 357 for practicing engrosser. Now i'm buying Gillott 601. Is Gillot 601 a good nib? Cause it still on it's way to me 😁
-
Holy crap... that box of Spencerian 1's went for $620 at the end. Also, saw that fantastic Victorian Gillott set- that thing is seriously one of the sexiest things I've ever seen but man... that price. Still, I ended up saving pictures of it for reference. I really wish that stuff like that ended up at museums more often- it must be so incredibly rare to have an almost completely full set like that AND have it be in that condition.
As a side note I've decided that I may start doing a nib a day review on Periscope or something. At the very least I'm definitely going to do one about how various shapes and designs affect performance as well as what I the POU (philosophy of use) for designs were.
My Periscope is eNtroPyINK for anyone interested. At the very least I think it'd be a ton of fun to just show you guys my workspace and get some other opinions.
-
My Periscope is eNtroPyINK for anyone interested. At the very least I think it'd be a ton of fun to just show you guys my workspace and get some other opinions.
Don't forget to copy this info over into the "official" Periscope thread (sorry too lazy to hunt for it, I was just looking at it a couple of minutes ago...) if you haven't done so already
-
As I mentioned in another thread, I recently was fortunate to come upon a minor treasure trove of nibs. In this collection, there were several Gillott nibs. In addition to some of the well-known Gillott's nibs, there were also a nice little group of Gillott 292 Public Pen nibs. I couldn't find much information on these, but I have say that just from my limited experience, these are quite nice nibs. Very fine hairlines, a good spring and nice shading.
Another less-well-known nib that is a very nice option.
-
So Many Nibs I want to try.... $$$$$$$$$$ :(
-
Lately bought so many nibs and my first oblique pen holder and absolutely love writing with it. It felt different as i was used to straight one.
Since i have so many nibs i usually get confused which one to use. So i started with Hunt 101, Gillotte 303 and Brause 66EF as suggested by @SMK. All there are quite flexible with fine hairline.
Here's how they all write. For newbies this might be of some use.
Keep Writing,
Ashok
-
Hey folks,
I'm new to the Forum and just wanted to say hello. I'm relatively new to writing with an oblique holder, so I've not yet gotten to the point where I feel I can appreciate any nib enough for it to be my favorite. I'll get there. These are the 16 I've got to work with, all vintage I believe:
- Brandauer "Oriental" #342 Grey Ex-Fine
- E.S. Perry #440 Bronze Ex-Fine
- Esterbrook #126 “Double Spring”
- Esterbrook #128 "Extra-Fine Elastic"
- Esterbrook #354 "Art & Drafting"
- Esterbrook #355 "Art & Drafting"
- Esterbrook #356 "Art & Drafting"
- Gillott #170 "Warranted"
- Gillott #290 "Lithographic Pen"
- Gillott #303 Ex-Fine
- Gillott #404 "Warranted"
- Goode & Co. #801 Ex-Fine
- Goode & Co. #99 Ex-Fine
- Hinks Wells “Shell Pointed” #2438 Ex-Fine
- John Mitchell #0286 Ex-Fine
- Spencerian #1 “Double Elastic” Ivison Phinney & Co.
I know of the reputation of the Spencerian #1, the Gillott nibs and a couple of the Esterbrooks. I'm quite impressed though with the E.S. Perry #440 EF, the Goode & Co #801 EF and the John Mitchell #0286 EF. Do any of you folks work regularly with these last three? What are your thoughts on the quality of them relative to the more prized Spencerian #1 and the Gillott nibs?
Also, I'm not able to fit the tiny ones into my oblique holder. Any suggestions for the best place to get flanges customized to hold the tinier nibs? Much appreciated.
K
-
Hi Krapprot,
I haven't tried any of the nibs you specifically mention, but they are all made by good companies. Goode and Co are in fact made by Perry & Co, who for a time made Spencerian nibs, before manufacture moved the the US. E.S. Perry was a company started by one of the Perry & Co family, and so are also excellent nibs. I'm not sure about the history of the John Mitchell company, but I have tried several of their nibs, and found them to be good.
As for the flange issue, you might try purchasing a set of 'bail making pliers' of ebay, or similar. Jewellery makers use them, but they are great for adjusting flanges. Make sure you get a set with straight, rather than tapered ends, and with one end around 3mm wide. Something like this will do http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Bail-Making-Pliers-Wire-Wrapping-Consistent-Loops-Beading-Crafts-Jewellery-Tools-/152286489731?hash=item2374fb6c83:g:dHkAAOSwZJBYBxDw
-
Oohhhh man oh man what I wouldn't give to have a box of vintage gillott 170s.
-
Oohhhh man oh man what I wouldn't give to have a box of vintage gillott 170s.
@Bianca M
Well, it's not a full box but this listing is for 40 at $99.99, so $2.50/nib. Not a bad price for a very good nib. I'd buy them at this price if I didn't have so many already.
He also has a listing for 50 at $129.99 ($2.60/nib)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/40-JOSEPH-GILLOTTS-VINTAGE-170-PEN-NIBS-in-Original-Box-ENGLAND-Free-Shipping-/152388554199?hash=item237b10cdd7:g:DW8AAOSw-0xYcqtv
-
Silly question but how long do people expect these million dollar nibs to last? Last time I checked a nib was a consumable rather than a collectable.
-
Hi Krapprot,
As for the flange issue, you might try purchasing a set of 'bail making pliers' of ebay, or similar. Jewellery makers use them, but they are great for adjusting flanges. Make sure you get a set with straight, rather than tapered ends, and with one end around 3mm wide. Something like this will do http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Bail-Making-Pliers-Wire-Wrapping-Consistent-Loops-Beading-Crafts-Jewellery-Tools-/152286489731?hash=item2374fb6c83:g:dHkAAOSwZJBYBxDw
If you want to adjust a flange , Chris Yoke of Yoke Pen Co. makes exactly what you need.
http://www.yokepencompany.com/collections/accessories
You could also buy a pen with an adjustable flange (from Chris, JNB or PIA).
-
Silly question but how long do people expect these million dollar nibs to last? Last time I checked a nib was a consumable rather than a collectable.
It will last as long as people will pay a ridiculous price.
Most of these nibs are bought by either a person "treating" themselves to one or a few just to try or say they have one, or by resellers who buy the bigger lots and raise the price on eBay to resell them, as opposed to use them.
It's important to note, a great nib does not a great penman make. Great work can be done by a host of "lesser" nibs. When people who use the nibs stop paying $10-30 for a single nib, the price will come down.
-
@AnasaziWrites well, that makes another $100 that I've spent on vintage nibs this week (and it's only Tuesday, Lord help me). A very worthy purchase, though - those 170s are wonderful. Thank you for bringing my attention to that listing- I didn't find it in my search yesterday, but perhaps it was just posted. You've made my day!
-
@AnasaziWrites well, that makes another $100 that I've spent on vintage nibs this week (and it's only Tuesday, Lord help me). A very worthy purchase, though - those 170s are wonderful. Thank you for bringing my attention to that listing- I didn't find it in my search yesterday, but perhaps it was just posted. You've made my day!
@Bianca M
Great. View it as a form of commitment to your art.
Just curious--what did you previously buy for $100?
-
@AnasaziWrites, indeed! I bought some Blanzy 605s, Blanzy 2552s, and Velleda 2436s. I've recently found them to be quite nice for addressing cotton envelopes with gouache- a smoother, more visible hairline, particularly useful for the lighter colors. If I'm using black ink, a Hunt 22B or similar will do just fine on those envelopes, but not so much with, say, grey gouache.
-
Hi Krapprot,
I haven't tried any of the nibs you specifically mention, but they are all made by good companies. Goode and Co are in fact made by Perry & Co, who for a time made Spencerian nibs, before manufacture moved the the US. E.S. Perry was a company started by one of the Perry & Co family, and so are also excellent nibs. I'm not sure about the history of the John Mitchell company, but I have tried several of their nibs, and found them to be good.
As for the flange issue, you might try purchasing a set of 'bail making pliers' of ebay, or similar. Jewellery makers use them, but they are great for adjusting flanges. Make sure you get a set with straight, rather than tapered ends, and with one end around 3mm wide. Something like this will do http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Bail-Making-Pliers-Wire-Wrapping-Consistent-Loops-Beading-Crafts-Jewellery-Tools-/152286489731?hash=item2374fb6c83:g:dHkAAOSwZJBYBxDw
Melanie:
Thanks for the info both about the nibs as well as the pliers you mentioned. I'll be buying a pair this week!
K
-
Bianca:
I believe I saw some on eBay recently. You may want to do a quick search.
K
-
Oohhhh man oh man what I wouldn't give to have a box of vintage gillott 170s.
@Bianca M
Well, it's not a full box but this listing is for 40 at $99.99, so $2.50/nib. Not a bad price for a very good nib. I'd buy them at this price if I didn't have so many already.
He also has a listing for 50 at $129.99 ($2.60/nib)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/40-JOSEPH-GILLOTTS-VINTAGE-170-PEN-NIBS-in-Original-Box-ENGLAND-Free-Shipping-/152388554199?hash=item237b10cdd7:g:DW8AAOSw-0xYcqtv
Yes, those are the ones I saw too. I hope Bianca was able to grab them in time.
Update: It appears she was! Great news.
K
-
Hi Krapprot,
As for the flange issue, you might try purchasing a set of 'bail making pliers' of ebay, or similar. Jewellery makers use them, but they are great for adjusting flanges. Make sure you get a set with straight, rather than tapered ends, and with one end around 3mm wide. Something like this will do http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Bail-Making-Pliers-Wire-Wrapping-Consistent-Loops-Beading-Crafts-Jewellery-Tools-/152286489731?hash=item2374fb6c83:g:dHkAAOSwZJBYBxDw
If you want to adjust a flange , Chris Yoke of Yoke Pen Co. makes exactly what you need.
http://www.yokepencompany.com/collections/accessories
You could also buy a pen with an adjustable flange (from Chris, JNB or PIA).
That's awesome! Thanks so much for pointing me in the right direction.
K
-
Thank you @Krapprot - I didn't find them in my search yesterday (not those boxes anyway!) but I did nab the box of 40 today. Oh joy!!
-
If any of you have an interest in a few free Spencerian #1 nibs with a little corrosion on them, I found seven while sorting through mine yesterday. I don't know if anyone bothers with such nibs, but they're yours for the asking. Just post (or send) me your mailing address. Thanks.
K
-
Hey folks,
I'm new to the Forum and just wanted to say hello. I'm relatively new to writing with an oblique holder, so I've not yet gotten to the point where I feel I can appreciate any nib enough for it to be my favorite. I'll get there. These are the 16 I've got to work with, all vintage I believe:
- Brandauer "Oriental" #342 Grey Ex-Fine
- E.S. Perry #440 Bronze Ex-Fine
- Esterbrook #126 “Double Spring”
- Esterbrook #128 "Extra-Fine Elastic"
- Esterbrook #354 "Art & Drafting"
- Esterbrook #355 "Art & Drafting"
- Esterbrook #356 "Art & Drafting"
- Gillott #170 "Warranted"
- Gillott #290 "Lithographic Pen"
- Gillott #303 Ex-Fine
- Gillott #404 "Warranted"
- Goode & Co. #801 Ex-Fine
- Goode & Co. #99 Ex-Fine
- Hinks Wells “Shell Pointed” #2438 Ex-Fine
- John Mitchell #0286 Ex-Fine
- Spencerian #1 “Double Elastic” Ivison Phinney & Co.
I know of the reputation of the Spencerian #1, the Gillott nibs and a couple of the Esterbrooks. I'm quite impressed though with the E.S. Perry #440 EF, the Goode & Co #801 EF and the John Mitchell #0286 EF. Do any of you folks work regularly with these last three? What are your thoughts on the quality of them relative to the more prized Spencerian #1 and the Gillott nibs?
Also, I'm not able to fit the tiny ones into my oblique holder. Any suggestions for the best place to get flanges customized to hold the tinier nibs? Much appreciated.
K
@Krapprot
It's always fun testing new nibs. Thanks for the samples--I'll send you the original test sheet (plus a few nibs you might find interesting), as no matter how good the scan, seeing the ink with your eye is better.
I start my tests with a line of Gillott 604ef, which is what I use most for what I do, and use as a standard of comparison. Note: there is no nib that will do everything or is best for everything. What your favorite will be will depend on many things--what script you're doing, what paper you're using, what ink, what size of letters, the lightness of your hand, etc., etc. For most of my work, I use x-fine or sharper, x-flex or softer.
My scale for sharpness runs
xxxx fine--Esterbrook 355 for example
xxx fine--Gillott 303 vintage
xx fine--Gillott 604 ef
x fine--Spencerian 1 (England)
v fine--Zebra G
fine--Nikko G
Med--Esterbrook 942
For flexibility
xxx flex--Brandauer 342
xx flex--Gillott 604ef
x flex --Spencerian 1
flex Nikko G
slight flex--Esterbrook 126
inflexible--many
Esterbrook 126--slight flex, xx fine. A good ledger pen where you don't need shades, but need to write small.
Mitchell 0286-- x flex, x fine. Good for larger Spencerian with moderate shades--don't go all Lupfer with this one.
Perry 440ef--x fine, x flex--good all around nib
Goode 99--fine, flex--most similar to a Nikko G
The Brandauer 342ef I could not give a good test, as it was sprung, but I would say its xxx-flex, x-fine (maybe sharper). Need a super light touch with this one.
(x height = 1/10 inch)
-
@AnasaziWrites
That is just awesome. Thanks for putting in the time and effort to give those nibs a whirl. I'm sorry the 342 was sprung. Did I actually send it to you that way? If so, I'm happy to send you a couple more.
I'd love to see the original artwork. Yes, that 126 is a bit rigid, especially for a nib called "Double Spring." It's a sharp little beast though. I'm most partial to the Perry 440 myself, which is what I'm currently using as my default. I'd like to master that 342 over time, but I'm still intimidated by that beak.
Thanks again for the feedback!
K
-
@AnasaziWrites
That is just awesome. Thanks for putting in the time and effort to give those nibs a whirl. I'm sorry the 342 was sprung. Did I actually send it to you that way? If so, I'm happy to send you a couple more.
I'd love to see the original artwork. Yes, that 126 is a bit rigid, especially for a nib called "Double Spring." It's a sharp little beast though. I'm most partial to the Perry 440 myself, which is what I'm currently using as my default. I'd like to master that 342 over time, but I'm still intimidated by that beak.
Thanks again for the feedback!
K
@Krapprot
Yes the 342 was sprung on arrival, but that's easy to miss if you're not looking for it. Easiest way to spot it is to hold the nib up to a strong light--you'll see light coming through the slit. Confirmed with a 10x loupe. I didn't bother to check it before I used it, but is became obvious with the first stroke--it couldn't make a fine line. No need to send another--save them to further experiment yourself.
Please excuse the roughness of the sample lines--no fine calligraphy here, just a rough and ready test of the nibs.
I'll be in touch.
Thanks again,
Mike
-
Have another great vintage nib to recommend.
I've been interested in the Leon Isaac's Company pens for quite a while now. The quality is always superb. Most of their pens are standard office-type pens. Most range from firm to firm-flex with a few semi-flex (like their version of the bank pen) with one exception, the #27 which is a very flexible and sharp spear-shaped pen. But it's a little long to use with an oblique holder.
Yesterday I received a mixed lot of Leon Isaacs pens, and in a box of the #12 falcon stubs (Leon Isaacs invented and had the first patent for a falcon stub before Esterbrook), I found a large group of a small, straight pen, their #14 "Teacher" pen.
These are about the same size as a Spencerian No.1 so they fit quite well within an oblique holder. The two I've tried I would rank somewhere between a Spencerian No. 1 and a vintage Gilliott's 303. It's more flexible and slightly sharper than the Spencerian (easily can flex to 5x the hairline width), but much smoother than a 303. The spring is nicely responsive without being stiff. It also impresses me as a much more robust and durable pen than the 303, and Leon Isaacs & Co pens are most definitely very well made and generally last longer. In their day they were more expensive than Esterbrooks and were known for their "Glucinum" finish. Glucinum is the old term used for beryllium. I've not been able to confirm that they actually used beryllium in the coating, but I'm not sticking one in my mouth to find out.
The bad news is that you'll probably never run into these in the wild. I've been collecting Leon Isaacs for over a year and this is the first time I've ever seen this number. The good news is that if you do, they'll probably be fairly cheap. For $15.99 plus shipping I was able to get 120 of the very nice Bank Pens (better even than the estimable Esterbrook 14), 80 of the Falcon stubs, and 96 of these #14 teacher pens. Plus a few random ones that had found their way in there. That's just around $0.5 cents a nib.
Anyway, in my continuing advocacy for the less-well-known pens of the past, I just thought I'd share with y'all another wonderful old pen that I think you would enjoy.
You can see below a very poor example of my writing. My hands are just not warmed up enough this morning (or warmed up in the wrong way, I've been typing all morning) and it's bad even for me, but you can get the idea. The x-height on this practice page is 6mm to give you an idea of scale.
-
Playing around with some recent acquisitions.
-
I must look out for some of these nibs to try, the second from the bottom also looks a little like the Blanzy 2500 Sgt Major doesn't it :)
-
Is anyone familiar with the vintage No. 29 "Lance" nib by Gilbert & Blanzy-Poure? There was a box of them sitting on eBay for awhile that I impulsively grabbed a few days ago. I really should've asked around first before grabbing it. Has anyone used this nib? Good, bad, mediocre? Comparisons?
K
-
Another good nib that I discovered in a mixed lot is the Esterbrook 228 and I was able to get 24 of them today for less than 2.00 a nib. Not bad. I have two large lots that should be delivered within the week. I cannot wait to see what they will bring. There was no real description and I could not make out all of the nibs with the pictures. This is fun.
-
I started out with Nikko G, but my current favorite nib is the Gillot 303! but for beginners the Brause Steno is really good, it's smooth and sturdy, not as tough as the Nikko G.
-
I started out my Copperplate with the Tachikawa G and the Zebra G and i loved them! Only recently i found and tried out a Hunt 22 i found in my craft case, and i immediately switched over. I've been using the Hunt 22 ever since, butI'm planning on ordering some different ones like the Gillot 303 and Hunt 56 to experiment some more.
-
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4349/36366179353_1566889464_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Xpyb9i)
-
Hello, I like a Zebra G nib. I think like all fairly new calligraphers it's quite easy to handle. I've also enjoyed the Leonard Principal, nice fine hairlines achieved with this one. I'm waiting for some vintage Baignol & Farjon Cementee 2436 nibs to arrive, I've heard they're good.... anyone tried them?
-
I see Gillot 303 quite a bit on this thread. But when I tried them I had a lot of duds, and it sprang quite a bit on me. Is that still a problem? Or have they upped the quality control lately?
-
@Sue W I like the Zebra G as well. I haven't heard of the other one. I hope it worked well. :D
@RachaelS That seems to be the case with the 303 overall. I have always found them to be a bit glitchy. :(
-
I'm looking to try out nibs and experiment a bit. I currently use a Zebra G and I love it! However I know the Leonardt Principle is popular and I'm curious to try it. But I get my Zebras for a Lot cheaper.
I've also tried the 303 but I had so many bad nibs in a batch of 50 that only 20 were usable. Not worth the money to me.
What inexpensive nibs do you guys love?
-
I'm looking to try out nibs and experiment a bit. I currently use a Zebra G and I love it! However I know the Leonardt Principle is popular and I'm curious to try it. But I get my Zebras for a Lot cheaper.
I've also tried the 303 but I had so many bad nibs in a batch of 50 that only 20 were usable. Not worth the money to me.
What inexpensive nibs do you guys love?
Vintage. One tip for buying vintage, if it has "College" or "University" in its name, the odds are that it is reasonably flexible. Also anything marked "EF" has a reasonable chance to be as good as a Zebra. And they're often cheaper (but not always). No promises, but more times than not you'll find something that's pretty good.
-
As a total newbie who knows nothing . . . . yet, I have the nerve to have fallen in love with my new Hunt 101. I also purchased a Gillott the other day but have not pulled it out because of being enamored with the Hunt.
Per Lindsey Bugbee's recommendation I started with the Nikko G :o; not impressed. Then I saw a fellow student writing with the Tachikawa G and just knew it was heaven; purchased it. Then I saw writing with the Hunt and Gillott and that Hunt gives me the thin lines that I love. Clearly it is about controlling the nib and not the other way around; but I just couldn't with the G's. It just occurred to me, say, six months to a year down the line if I pick up my G's again, what the difference will be. I'd say a heapa bunch. Meanwhile, I am sticking with my Hunt 101. ;D
-
Keep in mind - you get different results with each combination of nib - ink - and paper.
Nikko G's with McCaffrey's ink on Rhodia or Clairefontaine paper is a very friendly combination some of us.
You won't know which combinations will work for you until you try them.
As you collect different nibs and papers, it is helpful to keep a folder with a variety of papers
and then do a test, using different nibs and inks or gouache - so you can find the combinations that feel the best to you.
Happy Lettering
-
I started out with the Nikko G and Zebra G. If i had to choose between these two, Nikko G! I am a fan of the Brause Steno too. But I have branched out to other nibs recently thru a sampler pack i got from John Neals Books.
Love:
Brause 66EF
Gillott 1068A, 1950, 170
Hunt 22, 101, 512
Hiro Crown, 111, 700
Leonardt 256,700, principal EF
-
Personally...I don't have a favourite nib. I have had the pleasure of using some vintage nibs and they were fantastic and so effortless in their function. Modern nibs are, in my opinion, horribly made and are deserving of it. Do not mistake me, however, there are some great nibs out there but none that are wonderful enough to be called a favourite. I used to have a favourite, that was the Golden Era leonardt Principal EF (those that remember will know what I am meaning) but that is sadly no longer with us. I have settled on the Hunt 101 (and even then I have to constantly tweak every single nib to either realign or sharpen the nib) and Gillott's 303 but there are still too many issues and disparages between each nib at any given purchase to call them anything other than decent. I don't think that there will be a nib to call a favourite until either a new company comes along that makes quality nibs, or the current companies manage to fix their problems and give us all more consistent, quality nibs with more accurate designs.
For those that don't want to read the whole thing: I have settled (begrudgingly) on the Hunt 101 and Gillott's 303 nibs but there isn't a nib out there right now that I would hoard for years.
-
I never thought of not choosing a favorite. ;D I will say though, I rediscovered my vintage Esterbrook 357’s. Dreamy! I do like the thins of the current Leonardt Principal EF but it is rather inconsistent in quality. God Bless Brian Walker (Rest in Peace) for his efforts on our behalf.
I still do all my practice with a Zebra G - very consistent and I like the thicks and thins. It produces a smooth line and rarely snags.
I do hope one of these days one of the go-getters develop a nib that is of the quality of ‘back in the day.’
-
I never thought of not choosing a favorite. ;D I will say though, I rediscovered my vintage Esterbrook 357’s. Dreamy! I do like the thins of the current Leonardt Principal EF but it is rather inconsistent in quality. God Bless Brian Walker (Rest in Peace) for his efforts on our behalf.
I still do all my practice with a Zebra G - very consistent and I like the thicks and thins. It produces a smooth line and rarely snags.
I do hope one of these days one of the go-getters develop a nib that is of the quality of ‘back in the day.’
That would be the dream. I have thought about it many times but the expense of it just doesn’t justify it, not with the way that we all think of it. In order to make a nib of the same quality as the golden age or “principality” age, the nib would need to sold for at least £4 per nib. It would be too far out of anyone’s price range for a disposable item that lasts for hours.
-
I do not have it any more, but years ago, I had an article that described all the steps it took to make vintage nibs and it was an incredible amount of work - mostly done by hand. I remember thinking that it must have been a horrible job - for the people who worked in the factories. Sadly, some things just have to made by hand - and there would be no way to compensate someone for the amount of time and effort it would take to replicate the process. I'll contact Bob Hurford and see if he has the article.
Here is an article from the IAMPETH website about vintage nibs.
https://www.iampeth.com/lesson/getting-started/look-fine-flexible-nibs
-
Thanks Jean, I would be interested in reading it. I believe there is a place in England where they still make nibs by hand. I will try to find the information about it. It was on our visit list before the trip was canceled because of Covid.
-
For those with an interest in how pens were made would find this book to be of interest:
People, Pens & Production in Birmingham's Steel Pen Trade edited by Brian Jones MBE
-
Here is an article from the IAMPETH website about vintage nibs.
https://www.iampeth.com/lesson/getting-started/look-fine-flexible-nibs
I SO wish I could meet you gals there next year. Funny how the trade on freedom works out. Not working my time is my own; but no cheddar to travel. {shoulder hunch}.
-
Thanks Jean, I would be interested in reading it. I believe there is a place in England where they still make nibs by hand. I will try to find the information about it. It was on our visit list before the trip was canceled because of Covid.
I don’t believe anywhere here is actually still making the nibs any hand, although the Pen Museum in Birmingham has many of the old manual tools which were used, and you can have a go yourself at parts of the process.....however, it’s not the whole process and I doubt that everything needed, nor indeed the knowledge, still exists.
-
Thank you @melanie jane . I think that is what I was thinking of. :)
-
It would be interesting to know how much of the process they do have the equipment for, but I doubt they’d have the ability to temper (or possibly knowledge) the metal properly etc, nor coat it.
It’s a shame that so much knowledge of how the nibs were made has been lost 😞
-
I'm guessing that the techniques for working with metal have not been lost and if a skilled metalsmith wanted to figure out how to make the finest nibs by hand, they could. It reminds me of the handmade knives that are so beautiful and expensive. You don't have to be a chef to appreciate a great knife and anyone who chooses to invest in one will enjoy it for many years. Nibs wear out. It's unlikely anyone would want to pay a fair price for the time and energy it would take to replicate the ones we wish we could buy.
-
But I would also think with production, machinery, and the technology we have today, a company should be able to produce in quantity a good quality nib. It’s more likely the market just isn’t big enough for the investment.
-
How do you feel about the Brause Rose nib?
Also, what is a good nib for handmade paper? I found the sharper nibs seem to collect the fibers very quickly.
-
I LOVE the Brause Rose nibs! With that said, they are a bit temperamental. Sometimes it takes a bit of finesse to get them going. But once they do, they create beautiful shades and nice hairlines!
Handmade paper is always a challenge because by its nature, it has more loose fibers. I like to use the Zebra G or Nikko G because the nib is a bit stiffer which means less splats. However, they are pretty sharp points so I try to break it in a bit first before going to the hand made. And then go very slowly with a gentle touch.
Hope that helps!
-
As far as making the nibs goes, standard nibs anyway, they are relatively simple. It's tempering the metal after rounding that is where the real science comes in. The nibs need to be flexible but also strong. It's a fine balance to temper metal to that point.
-
I do like the thins of the current Leonardt Principal EF but it is rather inconsistent in quality. God Bless Brian Walker (Rest in Peace) for his efforts on our behalf.
I would venture to say Brian would be appalled at the quality level of these nibs. I've resisted buying these for years, mainly because almost every review contains the "but" about their consistency. Having heard over and over that "It's my favorite nib," six months ago I bought a ten pack of these (in a nice decorative tin), and gave them a close look and test.
Of the ten nibs, nine were either splayed or had misaligned tines or both. That makes the one good nib pretty expensive. Not to say you can't get some adequate results from the ones with uneven tines, but if that's all you're using, you might not realize that better results are possible.
I do hope one of these days one of the go-getters develop a nib that is of the quality of ‘back in the day.’
Sadly, I agree with others that the economics are against it.
-
Well that stinks! >:( So frustrating. It is one reason I stick with Zebra G most of the time. You don’t get the delicate hairlines but they really are quite reliable. Although I have been loving my Hunt 101’s recently. And once you get past the breaking in point, they can be rather hardy.
Have you tried the vintage Blanzy 2552? Delightful little thing. Just wish they weren’t so darn expensive.
-
Well that stinks! >:( So frustrating. It is one reason I stick with Zebra G most of the time. You don’t get the delicate hairlines but they really are quite reliable. Although I have been loving my Hunt 101’s recently. And once you get past the breaking in point, they can be rather hardy.
Have you tried the vintage Blanzy 2552? Delightful little thing. Just wish they weren’t so darn expensive.
Can't know if you're responding to me or not, but here goes.
@Erica McPhee
I have a couple of boxes of those--a decent nib.
Right now on eBay there are ten boxes for sale here for less than $50/box--very cheap for such a good nib.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/165630090278 (https://www.ebay.com/itm/165630090278)
-
Yes, I was responding to you @AnasaziWrites ! Good find! Thanks!
-
The first nib I ever bought was a Hunt 56 and I didn't know anything about nibs. It was a vintage brass nib - which are still available on E-bay. They aren't cheap but the brass/hand ground ones last for such a long time if we remember to care of them properly.
I also love a Zebra G that is very hard to get - It looks like a regular Nikko G nib, except that there is a blue dot on the back side. This dot is ink and it comes off when you wash your nib. Then, the only way to tell it apart from the regular Nikko G is to use it. You will see that it has a medium flex instead of a stiff flex. It was much easier for me than the regular Nikko G. But, you can only get it from Japan or from someone who got them in Japan. I wish there was a way to get more. I even sent an email to Jet Pens telling them about the nib and they seemed excited about the information but I never heard anything back.
Like you said, Erica, the Blanzy 2552 is really nice as well.
-
Kismet! Love the Hunt 56! I have a small stash of vintage ones and whenever I use one I am reminded of how much I like them.
Do you think the Zebra G you are talking about is different from the regular Zebra G? I look on Amazon Japan and they have Nikko G, Zebra G, and the Tachikowa G. But I didn’t see any with a blue dot.
I find the Zebra G to be more flexible than the Nikko G anyway. You can get them on Amazon affiliate link (https://amzn.to/3SWQMoV).