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Messages - Tanvir Ahmed

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Tools & Supplies / Re: Quality control with Gillott 303s and 404s
« on: April 01, 2016, 07:58:24 AM »
Well, I haven't had a bad one for a long time.


What is your source of 303's and what was the last time you purchased it.  I will like to purchase a box of "working" 303's.


Tools & Supplies / Re: Quality control with Gillott 303s and 404s
« on: March 31, 2016, 10:38:17 PM »
Well, for these it was...

Dawn and a soft toothbrush. More than once.
Toothpaste, very gently, more than once.
Windex, just once
Plain ol' spit, more than once.
The flame method, very briefly.

I tried a LOT of things. Nothing worked.

Any nothing will work for the 303s.  Please see my post couples of posts above your post.  As I mentioned that there seem to be 42 or so nibs seem O.K. out of 144.  Out of those 42 nibs I am discarding around a nibs to get a good one (and those are still not as good even as the 2009 batch)  So basically there are 15-20 passable nibs out of 144.  Current 303s are in a very sad state of manufacture.


Tools & Supplies / Re: My light pad broke today...
« on: March 31, 2016, 09:30:29 AM »
I ended up impulse ordering the Artograph online last night...but now reading all of the positives about the Daylight Wafer, and reading reviews that say the power connection on the Artograph isn't that great, I might return if I notice the slightest bit of sketchiness.

Artograph uses an old fashioned 5.5mm dc connector.  From the pictures, it look like Daylight Wafer also uses 5.5mm dc connector but not sure about it.  I think the reliability of connectors should be approximately the same and will mostly depends on the durability of the mounting wall of the jack.

For what it's worth, I received my Artograph couple of weeks ago and consciously eliminated any light pad/light box with USB connections.  I liked the styling and aesthetics of Artograph more than Daylight Wafer when choosing between these two.

Thank you.

Tools & Supplies / Re: My light pad broke today...
« on: March 30, 2016, 11:32:05 PM »
I am guessing it is more likely either a mini or micro female USB receptacle.  You can pick 10 for around $3.00 or so at eBay, shipping included, and solder it to the light pad.  It may not be exact physical dimensions but you can bring the wires out of your box (will not be pretty in this case).  If you really don't have any need for unplugging the USB wire from the light pad, I will just solder USB wire directly to the light pad and don't even worry about purchasing anything to make the repair.  You already have the USB cable.

Thank you.

Open Flourish | General Discussion / Re: Buying a new oblique
« on: March 25, 2016, 09:23:38 PM »
In regards to Connie's Pens, or any other ergonomic pen holder for that matter, there is one thing to consider. It forces your hand into a traditional grip, whereas your knuckles are facing up. This is a wonderful thing to learn, but most of the world does not have that grip by default.

Are you referring the hand position for spencerian script, ornamental or otherwise. at high speed?  For Engrosser script, Lupfer have the following directions.  "Shoulders up.  The hand may turn over on the side more than in ordinary writing.  By having it over on the side there is a firm foundation for the hand, which is necessary in slow writing, such as roundhand".  And from the writing I guess for slow Spencerian also like Michael Sull.  I have only seen Michael Sull writing in youtube and his index finder is to the right of the pen instead on the top of the pen.  Not sure about the position of the wrist.

Personally when I practicing Palmer method, I hold my pen in the way you have described above but when I am doing copperplate, I move the hand to Lupfer instructions.

Thank you.

Open Flourish | General Discussion / Re: Buying a new oblique
« on: March 23, 2016, 12:44:52 PM »
I don't know if it's just me, but I don't find the hourglass oblique comfortable at all.  I'm not exactly sure what it is, but I think it's partly that it's too thin and slippery, and that combined with the weight of the bullock flange keeps pulling the pen around in my hand.  Anyone else find this?

I'm glad I'm not the only one! I feel the exact same way. I used it for awhile, but I just could not use it for a long amount of time. I have really small hands so I thought it would be a good fit, but I guess it's too skinny for me lol.

EoC - You can get a pen from Christopher Yoke for as little as $45 I've seen. His holders are fabulous and done with such care - highly recommend if you're able.

Surprisingly, Hourglass Holder is my favorite at this time.  I like the grip section to be preferably around 3/8" (~10mm).    I have normal to large size hands.

Of all the currently manufactured pen holders, Chris Yoke, who is mentioned above put the Hourglass holder ahead of anything else in his youtube review.  However if someone does not like a particular writing instrument, there are plenty of other for different needs and tastes.

Thank you.

Tools & Supplies / Re: Hand Carved Ergonomic Holder
« on: March 22, 2016, 06:23:22 PM »
Heebs - thanks!  Yeah, I can imagine.  Even the sanding of the straight holders that I do makes my hands hurt after a while   :-\

If you have a wood turning lathe, don't you sand with it so you don't have to do it manually?

Thank you.

I wish the workshop was in Postdam of New York.  I am sure you will have successful experience.


Open Flourish | General Discussion / Re: Cheap Oblique from China
« on: March 22, 2016, 09:13:42 AM »
Well i just ordered one  ;) I'm a leftie but i realized some "seasoned" left-handed calligraphers prefer right obliques, i thought i'd give it a try and choose an unexpensive one!

I will like to see how left hand person use the left oblique holder.  Will that configuration not direct the point to reverse slant and instead of letters slanting toward right, they need to be slanted toward left.  Even for the left hand person, I will think the logical choice is right obliques, just the thumb is opposite to the flange.  Or maybe I am making things complicated.

Thank you.

Tools & Supplies / Re: cement nibs
« on: March 20, 2016, 12:15:19 PM »
Not unlike a certain modern fountain pen manufacturer making near mystical claims for the perfectly ordinary stainless it uses for its nibs.

If I am correct, the said company also has a "Solve *" magic ingredient in the ink which happened to be ordinary detergent/wetting agent.

Thank you

I'm not a pointed pen person, so I don't have much to say in the way of critique but if I were getting married, I'd definitely be willing to hire you to write my place cards.

Thank you for kind comments.  My wife like to entertain and in return we get invited quite a bit.  My goal is to be able to write decent looking thank you notes to the people who invite us.

Also, kudos on including brownian motion in your practice list.  ;D

That is what I sometimes feel that point of my pen is doing  :).  The desire does not quite translate to the movement of the nib.

Thank you.

Salman, thank you for your kind remarks.  This is the second attempt at calligraphy.  First time I got into was in 2009 but I practiced less than 4 or 5 weeks total even if that much.  Did not even finish the lowercase alphabet.  I got seduced by the nibs and nibs I bought alright.  At one point I have 150-160 gross of Esterbrook Art and Drafting nibs plus Spencerian 1 and Gillotts and what not.  Later I sold pretty much all save few boxes just in case I come back to it again.  I put the pens away and did not come back to them until now (7 years later).  Last Christmas I got interested in calligraphy and came across one of your thread and this particular page and practice sheet actually nudged me to do concentrated practice. 

I have the above page bookmarked.

Thank you.

Three moons have come and gone since I have started to practice with some regularity.  Here I am after about three months.  The areas to improve are many.  downshade of "g" of mourning is not aligned correctly and the loop too thick.  Left shade of capital D is wavy and heavy.  Lower loop of compound curve in B is too flat.  Compound curve of J in jasmine is too straight.  These are the big ones.  Other mistakes are shades coming too low on lowercase and m and n has branching problems.  Capital P in pepper is not as good as the first P and stem of first lowercase p is too thin.  Top cut of t in salt is no good.  Other than few places, slant appear to be OK.  If you don't know what Brownian motion is, this practice sheet is a good exemplar of it or you can google it.

I am using Zanerian Manual for instruction.

Any suggestions to improve will be welcomed.

X height: 5mm
Slant: 52 degrees.
Pen:  Modern Gillott's 303 (current production)
Ink:  Tom Norton's Walnut.
Holder:  PIA Hourglass.

Thank you.

Tools & Supplies / Re: Hand Carving a Pen Holder
« on: March 13, 2016, 05:51:33 PM »
How are you fixed for archery suppliers in Pittsburgh?  Maybe it's just here (you do know that we English are required by law to practise with the longbow on a regular basis, right?), but bundles of heavy arrow staves are potentially a good source of dowelling.  The lighter ones are usually Douglas fir or Port Orford cedar if I remember rightly, but for really powerful bows they have to be hardwood.  A quick search just turned up a dozen or so different timbers.

That is a very good tip.  I have a colleague who's son is into long bows.  Osage Orange is usually the wood that come to mind on this side of the pond for bows but I will ask what other woods are used.

Maybe it's just here (you do know that we English are required by law to practise with the longbow on a regular basis, right?)

We have similar sort of law.  But instead of yielding wood, will yield some brass and lead.  Kennesaw, Georgia requires that its residents must own at least one firearm per household :).

Thank you.

Tools & Supplies / Re: Hand Carving a Pen Holder
« on: March 13, 2016, 09:35:44 AM »

Get yourself a half-round and a round bastard cut file and the shaping will go easier than with sandpaper. You can then start your sanding at 100 grit, followed by 150 and 220.

Also, get yourself some Cherry dowel rods. They make lovely holders and look especially good with an oil finish.

Did you catch my broadcast about making a flange with a pair of pliers and a drill bit? I think I have the video saved and will upload it some place if you haven't.

Thank you very much for the complement.

What size of files you use?  Local big box has 8" half round and 10" in full round (3/8 inch diameter) or 8" round (1/4 inch diameter).  I will get some nice wood after I gain some experience.  Surprisingly no one around has Cherry dowel rods.  Certainly need to search more.

I did not see your broadcast about using the drill bit, but Prasad (I think) posted a picture a while back with two drill bits taped together, making a sort of bail pliers. 

Just have to wait for the brass shim to show up.  Pittsburgh is a decent size industrial city but stores are dispersed all over the place.  Hard to find everything in the same place.

Thanks again.

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