Gilding – which size do you use and why?

[Estefa]

Ok, I really want to try gilding now. I have been reading and watching videos and 3 sizes keep coming up: Instacoll, Kölner Miniatum and Kölner Miniatum Ink. I also researched on the manufacturer's website and he says that Instacoll is meant more for objects (like statues, objects made of wood etc.), also to be applied for outdoors use, while Miniatum is recommended specifically for use with calligraphy on paper or parchment (the result being flexible without danger of breaking or fissures etc.). The ink is recommended for the same, just that they say it can be used with a dip nib or even a fountain pen (!!) for very fine, delicate lines, whereas the 'normal' Miniatum is better for bigger areas.

So it sounds like the latter two seem to be the logical choice for what I want to do (enhance some calligraphic elements with gilding). BUT:

Why do some calligraphers like to use Instacoll instead? It sounds like there is at least a little risk that the gilding will not last so long because the size is not flexible.

Is it easier to use? Or is it because the Miniatum has a bit of a health issue (at least they warn to use it only in a well aired workspace …)?

I'd be really curious to hear some opinion on that … thank you .

[Moya]

Gilding is SO GREAT!

I have tried the Kölner Miniatum Ink and the Kölner Miniatum; both great!  My notes:

- imitation gold (schlagmetal?) does not stick to either of them very well at all, but the 23k transfer gold does;
- much shorter 'active' time than previous sizes I have used (you have to work quick!);
- much easier to get a smooth rounded finish than previous sizes!
- not very good for flat gilding (or perhaps I just don't have the skill yet) - dries too quick.

The other size I have - I honestly do not know the name, I picked it up from a local art store and it was in a terrible bottle, so I immediately put it into a better one, but I left the label off.  It was very cheap (maybe $5 AUD?) and looks like runny PVC glue; it dries quickly to a clear jelly-like consistency but it stays jelly-like, so you can't really burnish it.   However it's the only one that works with schlagmetal.  (Real gold doesn't stick to it at all.)   For flat gilding it's quite good. 

There is a video somewhere on Harvest Crittenden's site of her using Instacoll, and it looks to be very similar to Miniatum in the way it behaves; I don't know how flexible it dries, though.  But I wonder if you can get a better burnish on something that dries hard?  I guess that it might be a trade-off for flexibility.

I haven't tried any of the Jerry Tresser gesso, which is supposed to be really really good.  I think I've put myself on a No Buying Things break ... at least until I use up what I have.

[jeanwilson]

Tressers gold size is available through John Neal Books and I have been using it for years. It is PVA based and works well with both real gold leaf and the faux-gold. It is nearly fool proof. I have only used it for flat gilding. It is not a gesso, for raised gilding. It stays flexible. I am not sure if it works to use it over traditional gesso. You could probably email John Neal and ask. It is thin, like ink, so you can write with it using a nib.

I do not know if Jerry Tresser makes a gesso.

Instacoll is what I have always used for raised gilding and it works very well. I believe it is what Sheila Waters uses. You can thin it for flat gilding. It is really cool to lay a panel of flat gold with thinned out Instacoll and then do a design or word or monogram over the top, not thinned, and have a raised design with a mat gold background.

Gilding is not very hard, but I think it can be trickier if the weather is humid. And it is something that you learn by doing. I'm not sure I would have tried it on my own. I was fortunate to be able to take a workshop with Peter Thornton which was very helpful. Peter showed us how to gild with a Uhu glue stick, which was fun.

My impression is that the flat gilding is pretty easy, but raised gilding may be a little harder. I've had a lot of luck with Instacoll and I do not even have the right kind of burnisher. I just use my Teflon folder - an essential tool for so many things.

[Estefa]

Thanks so much, Moya and Jean!! Very interesting.

I checked again on the Gerstendörfer website (they produce the Kölner and Instacoll products): They say that the Miniatum only works for transfer leaf gold (not for imitation gold, yes, the expression seems to be Schlagmetall, all these words are technical terms that are also new for me ), so that mirrors your experience. They say though that it should be active for 24 hours after it's dry? Confusing.

Also they say that gilding with Miniatum should not be burnished with an agate stone, only with cotton wool or the special tissue they offer, and that equally high gloss can be achieved like that than with the traditional stone polishing / burnishing. Again, not sure about the right terms here!

I post here a link to the company that produces the Kölner and Instacoll products: you can see that they offer the stuff also in smaller bottles which I think is great for trying …

http://www.blattgold.de/Gilding_cat_208.html

Thanks, Jean, for the info about Tressers Gold size. I guess for now I'll order some Instacoll and Miniatum and see how it goes. It is very expensive because of shipping and taxes for me to order supplies from the USA, so I try to find something I can get local .

I guess I just have to buy a bottle of each and try what I can do with it .

Also what you describe about combining flat and raised gilding sound very classy!! – But what do you mean you do not have the right burnisher, Jean? You mean such an agate stone? Harvest Crittenden says also to use only cotton wool for a very light polishing … do you mean by folder the bookbinding tool? – Sorry if my questions sound silly, but this is really a new world for me, plus I have to check a lot of words for the English-German translation .

And one thing more – do you know how to make little ornaments in the gold itself? Do you need such an instrument:

http://www.blattgold.de/Pearl-Ornament-Punches_detail_44_249.html

or is it possible with something else? Could this be done on a 'raised gilding' with Instacoll?

Another question, am I wrong or isn't traditional gesso for gilding rather poisonous because of the lead white in it? That's at least what I found in a recipe in a German calligraphy forum, that's why I didn't ask about that at all in my original post …

Thanks so much again for your answers.

[Scarlet Blue]

I have used Miniatum successfully for gold leaf. For metal leaf I use Eberhard Faber - mine is about 15 years old. I would like to try Instacoll.
I'd also like to try gesso.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gesso

[jeanwilson]

Thanks so much, Moya and Jean!! Very interesting.


Also what you describe about combining flat and raised gilding sound very classy!! – But what do you mean you do not have the right burnisher, Jean? You mean such an agate stone? Harvest Crittenden says also to use only cotton wool for a very light polishing … do you mean by folder the bookbinding tool? – Sorry if my questions sound silly, but this is really a new world for me, plus I have to check a lot of words for the English-German translation .

And one thing more – do you know how to make little ornaments in the gold itself? Do you need such an instrument:

http://www.blattgold.de/Pearl-Ornament-Punches_detail_44_249.html

or is it possible with something else? Could this be done on a 'raised gilding' with Instacoll?

Another question, am I wrong or isn't traditional gesso for gilding rather poisonous because of the lead white in it? That's at least what I found in a recipe in a German calligraphy forum, that's why I didn't ask about that at all in my original post …

Thanks so much again for your answers.

Yes, the teflon folder would be used to make handmade books.
I can see how the word folder would be confusing.
I do not recognize the tool Pearl-Ornament-Punches - but when you say "making ornaments in the gold itself" - if you mean pressing into the gold to make designs or even lettering - YES - that is another technique that is very easy and very pretty. I have enjoyed doing that with Instacoll.

With flat gilding, it is easy to make patterns or impress lettering into the gold. I have used a variety of tools for that. A tapestry needle, or a crewel needle - a needle used for embroidery, that has a blunt end will make very fine lines. You could probably use a knitting needle. There are other tools with a very tiny ball on the end of a needle that will work. They are used in book making - sometimes called a scoring tool - or stylus. Stylus is a very broad term. And a very good tool is a dried up ball point pen. The little ball in the tip of the pen will roll along and make an indentation into the gold and it is very easy to control. Dried up ball points are really nice for scoring paper for folding. A sharp needle would make fine lines, but you would need to be very careful.

Raised gilding with Instacoll will also give you a surface that you can impress designs into. It will depend on how thick the raised portion is. You would need to make sure it was completely dry.

You can carve designs into gesso before you lay the gold. I never tried that with Instacoll.

I don't know if there is any way to make gesso without the lead. I have a copy of Jerry Tresser's book (unless I gave it away) and I do not recall that it had any warnings about the hazards of lead. Jerry seems like the type who would know about lead. So, maybe he had a recipe that did not include lead. But I have a terrible memory, so maybe it did have lead in it. It is pretty easy to email with Jerry. [pause, while I google jerrry tresser] There is a lot of information at his website

www.jtresser.com/goldsize.html

I see he has a new edition of his book on raised gilding.

[Blotbot]

John Neal is now selling:

   S898. Jerry Tresser’s Liquid Gesso
S898. Jerry Tresser's Liquid Gesso. 8 grams.

Use this prepared gesso for manuscript illumination. His special slaked plaster recipe, based on Cennini's centuries-old formula and adjusted to work with Titanium Oxide, is now available in easy-to-use liquid form! (Jerry has used this gesso for his personal work for over 30 years.) It is tinted pink using gilder's bole, the traditional pigment. The gesso comes ready to use with brush or ruling pen. An easy adjustment is made for use with pointed or broad-edged pen or quill - directions are included (never dilute with water). Stir before using to remix the ingredients. It applies smoothly with no air bubbles or pinholes (never shake to remix!). Stored tightly sealed in its liquid form in your refrigerator; it will keep for years. Does not contain White Lead, but instead uses non-poisonous Titanium dioxide for the white pigment.


http://www.johnnealbooks.com/prod_detail_list/252

[Estefa]

I have used Miniatum successfully for gold leaf. For metal leaf I use Eberhard Faber - mine is about 15 years old. I would like to try Instacoll.
I'd also like to try gesso.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gesso

I could try to send you a bit of Instacoll, but I am not sure what kind of container would be safe . I just ordered a bottle. Let me know, you could DM me if you like.

I read the article about gesso, thing is this is more a general info so I was confused . It seems this is used also as base for wall paintings, picture frames etc., with different sorts of mixes. But thanks for posting!!

[Estefa]

Yes, the teflon folder would be used to make handmade books.
I can see how the word folder would be confusing.
I do not recognize the tool Pearl-Ornament-Punches - but when you say "making ornaments in the gold itself" - if you mean pressing into the gold to make designs or even lettering - YES - that is another technique that is very easy and very pretty. I have enjoyed doing that with Instacoll.

With flat gilding, it is easy to make patterns or impress lettering into the gold. I have used a variety of tools for that. A tapestry needle, or a crewel needle - a needle used for embroidery, that has a blunt end will make very fine lines. You could probably use a knitting needle. There are other tools with a very tiny ball on the end of a needle that will work. They are used in book making - sometimes called a scoring tool - or stylus. Stylus is a very broad term. And a very good tool is a dried up ball point pen. The little ball in the tip of the pen will roll along and make an indentation into the gold and it is very easy to control. Dried up ball points are really nice for scoring paper for folding. A sharp needle would make fine lines, but you would need to be very careful.

Raised gilding with Instacoll will also give you a surface that you can impress designs into. It will depend on how thick the raised portion is. You would need to make sure it was completely dry.

You can carve designs into gesso before you lay the gold. I never tried that with Instacoll.

Thank you so much for explaining the pattern making! Yes, this is exactly what I meant. After some further research, I think this tool is more used for the decoration of picture frames etc. .

I don't know if there is any way to make gesso without the lead. I have a copy of Jerry Tresser's book (unless I gave it away) and I do not recall that it had any warnings about the hazards of lead. Jerry seems like the type who would know about lead. So, maybe he had a recipe that did not include lead. But I have a terrible memory, so maybe it did have lead in it. It is pretty easy to email with Jerry. [pause, while I google jerrry tresser] There is a lot of information at his website

www.jtresser.com/goldsize.html

I see he has a new edition of his book on raised gilding.

Also thanks a lot for the link to Jerry Tressure's site! I quickly scanned his site regarding gesso, yes he mentiones the lead and that it's toxic, but apparently the one that is sold on John Neal is a mix he developed that does contain Titanium dioxid instead of lead white . As Blotbot explains in her post!

Thanks too for that, Ellen!! I must admit I did not think about looking on Johnneal's page, because usually I try to find something locally first .

[Scarlet Blue]

That's a very kind offer, Stefanie! I will see what I can find locally... I've not really looked properly for myself to be honest. I spent so much money on calligraphy last year that I've resolved to reign myself in a bit this year.
Yes, that Wiki link is general... it reminds me of plaster of Paris... which I remember playing with when I was a child.
The gist I get with raised gilding is that it's built up in layers, but I've also seen pictures of experienced calligraphers using blobs of PVA.... which I've tried - less said the better!! I think it needs a lot of patience and concentration to get it smooth and even.

[Estefa]

That's a very kind offer, Stefanie! I will see what I can find locally... I've not really looked properly for myself to be honest. I spent so much money on calligraphy last year that I've resolved to reign myself in a bit this year.

Oh me too!! This is the first stuff I invest in this year. Had some comissions, so that feels ok .

Yes, that Wiki link is general... it reminds me of plaster of Paris... which I remember playing with when I was a child.
The gist I get with raised gilding is that it's built up in layers, but I've also seen pictures of experienced calligraphers using blobs of PVA.... which I've tried - less said the better!! I think it needs a lot of patience and concentration to get it smooth and even.

Haha, I guess it also looks very simple when you see an experienced calligrapher write some perfect letters … or an acrobat salto around like crazy … well, we all have to start somewhere .

I think from what I read by now that the traditional gesso must be built up in layers … no idea about the modern surrogates.

[Erica McPhee]

Sorry I didn't see this earlier! I just took a 4 day class on gilding taught by Valerie Weilmuenster. Valerie was a professional gilder and illuminator with Mike Kesceg in Chicago for many years. Her work is gorgeous!

We used Instacoll (which is what she used in her business). And yes, you build up the layers to give the raised effect. It was a little tricky but really fun and just takes a little practice.

The gold leaf is then applied and burnished with an agate stone. It was really dazzling.

We also made a "paintable gold" from the gold leaf and gum arabic. It took more gold that way but was easier to use. It came out a little flatter but burnished nicely. You could then use an embossing tool to emboss around it. I'll try to remember to post a picture tomorrow (on my other computer).  The instacoll gold gilding was awesome!

[Scarlet Blue]

Thanks Erica! I'll look forward to your photos.

[Estefa]

We used Instacoll (which is what she used in her business). And yes, you build up the layers to give the raised effect. It was a little tricky but really fun and just takes a little practice.

The gold leaf is then applied and burnished with an agate stone. It was really dazzling.

Wow, I am envious ! I'd just like to know … Harvest said to use only cotton wool to burnish Instacoll, and in the manufacturer's information (you can download it from the website above) they also say only to use this … this gets more confusing the more I read .

We also made a "paintable gold" from the gold leaf and gum arabic. It took more gold that way but was easier to use. It came out a little flatter but burnished nicely. You could then use an embossing tool to emboss around it. I'll try to remember to post a picture tomorrow (on my other computer).  The instacoll gold gilding was awesome!

Erica, would you mind to explain this shortly …? I just tried to use gum arabicum as a size, because I couldn't wait for the delivery of the Instacoll and Miniatum ink, and it didn't exactly work very great – the gold comes off when I rub just a bit with cotton wool.

I'd very much love to see some pics! I'll keep you updated about my progress here too !

[Erica McPhee]

Wow, I am envious ! I'd just like to know … Harvest said to use only cotton wool to burnish Instacoll, and in the manufacturer's information (you can download it from the website above) they also say only to use this … this gets more confusing the more I read .

Well, Valerie and Mike Kecseg have been professional illuminator & gilders for like 15+ years so I guess they figured out a different way? We used agate stone in the class which is what Valerie said she uses.

Erica, would you mind to explain this shortly …? I just tried to use gum arabicum as a size, because I couldn't wait for the delivery of the Instacoll and Miniatum ink, and it didn't exactly work very great – the gold comes off when I rub just a bit with cotton wool.

I'd very much love to see some pics! I'll keep you updated about my progress here too !

We did a very elaborate process mixing the gold leaf with water and gum arabic until all that was left was a bit of shell gold (like a watercolor pan). It is the same as the shell gold you can buy, we just made it from scratch. It only had a small amount of gum arabic in it. But it created like a watercolor tablet so we could use it later with just a bit of water to get it to consistency. It then dries and you can reuse it.  It burnishes quite nicely.

I will post more following this with a few pictures.