Best nibs for bad paper

[RD5]

I realized most of the pen reviews out there are tested on good to high quality paper. As I have bad paper, and don't want to shell out for more paper. I wonder, what nibs work best with bad paper? Any tips or suggestions?

[AmyNeub]

I would suggest a Nikko G. It's not as sharp of a nib. I hope that helps. Good luck.

[AAAndrew]

What are you trying to do on the bad paper? And what ink are you using? It's a combination of all three that determines whether it works or not.

And you don't have to spend a lot of money on paper. 25% cotton laser printer paper seems to work quite well with pretty much anything I throw at it. A bit more expensive than the recycled-napkins-printer-paper that is the cheapest, but still rather inexpensive.

[Starlee]

I second @AAAndrew ’s thoughts on laser printer paper. I love some brands as much as Rhodia. I buy mine at a local art store for just under $10 CAD for 500 sheets, but I didn't write the names down. I buy whatever the store stocks as they all perform consistently well, although some better than others.
 
I am also curious about what exactly makes the paper ‘bad’. What do you not like?

Is it catchy? You could try gently sanding it with a pumice stone; or go the other way, and smoothen it with a skipping stone (smooth and flat...much like Spencer's favourite!). Please note, I am wild guessing here. These things might make it worse, but worth trying.

Does it bleed? Try different inks. For me, gouache or Ziller’s ink overcomes this issue when sumi bleeds.  I haven’t searched, but I think there are also art fixatives or even hair spray that might help; but, I am wild guessing again.

On a final note, you could just learn to live with it, if it bleeds. If it is catchy, you could also turn this into an opportunity. Jack White of the White Stripes once said he purposely did things the hard way. Faster learning curse as you have no choice but to learn a feather touch. Master it on this paper and any other paper will be a breeze!

[Erica McPhee]

All great suggestions. I would second the NikkoG nib however, sometimes they can be a bit sharp. So if your paper is soft, it may catch. I also like the Hunt 22 as a workhorse. You may get a few more skips (splats) than you are used to and your shades will be thinner but it is generally a sturdy nib.

Lastly, if you can get a good one, the Hiro 41s are fairly sturdy and a bit dull on the tip producing a rounded (softer) shade if that makes sense.

[AnasaziWrites]

What are you trying to do on the bad paper? And what ink are you using? It's a combination of all three that determines whether it works or not.

So true. No paper is good for everything, nor nib, nor ink. Even which script you are attempting, and its size have a bearing on your choice of paper (and thus ink and nib).

And you don't have to spend a lot of money on paper. 25% cotton laser printer paper seems to work quite well with pretty much anything I throw at it. A bit more expensive than the recycled-napkins-printer-paper that is the cheapest, but still rather inexpensive.

For the inks and nibs I use, I also find this 25% cotton laser printer paper (Staples or Hammermill) to work well, but again, not optimal for every task. For example, if you were printing up some guidelines to use with a light table/pad, I go for something lighter than the 32 lb. paper just mentioned to allow more light through. Cheap copy paper (18 lb. or lighter works well, if you're not using clear acetate (the best, as it blocks no light except the lines)).

So, what are you attempting?

[RD5]

I am just attempting to practice copperplate on all purpose paper. I have a G nib already, the Takinawa and it is really scratchy on the paper and very stiff. I would think that a more flexible nib would be better not a stiff one as is suggested.

[neriah]

Could you post a picture of your attempt and go into more details? Bad paper can mean a lots of things. If it bleeds, I suggest you buy another one because you won't be able to properly critique your work and it will influence your progress. Good paper doesn't have to be expensive, I suggest you check favourite practice paper thread: http://theflourishforum.com/forum/index.php?topic=209.0

If you are in Europe, Clairefontaine smart print paper 60 gsm is really cheap (~10$ for 1000 sheets) and works well with pointed pen and broad edge nibs, with sumi, walnut ink and gouache.

If your only problem is scratchy paper, it can be paper, nib, wrongly adjusted oblique holder or your technique. Using more flexible nib usually makes it even worse because those tend to be even more scratchy and often snap on upstrokes if paper is not really smooth.

[AAAndrew]

I am just attempting to practice copperplate on all purpose paper. I have a G nib already, the Takinawa and it is really scratchy on the paper and very stiff. I would think that a more flexible nib would be better not a stiff one as is suggested.

Flexibility and smoothness are not necessarily connected, but @neriah is correct that often more flexible nibs can have a finer point, and thus be more liable to be "scratchy." 

Any reasonably smooth, commercial paper can work in terms of scratchiness. I would stay away from anything textured, like the "linen finish" papers, or some 100% cotton papers, and hand-made papers are right out.

Most of the time a scratchy nib is either misaligned tines, one tine is "higher" than the other when seen through a magnifying glass, or technique. Developing the very light touch it requires to write with dip pens can take some practice. A steel dip pen will never feel like a ball point, or roller ball or even a fountain pen. They will always have more "feedback", i.e. you will feel the paper much more under the pen. If you are regularly catching the nib on the upstrokes, then a lighter touch is needed.

If your tines are mis-aligned, then you can either try and push the high tine down to meet the lower one, or get a new nib. Sometimes just flexing it carefully on your thumbnail can put them back into alignment. What you don't want to do is push the low time up to meet the high tine and then end up with a slit that is too wide.

You can also have a corroded tip, and that will make a pen feel scratchy. If a new nib feels better with the same ink, paper and nib, then it was the old nib and it should be discarded. If the nib has always felt scratchy, then check for alignment. If it's aligned, you can try and smooth the nib on a very fine hone, or even one of those three-grit fancy nail files found at beauty supply stores. There are two rougher grits on one side and a buffing grit on the back. Fountain pen folks use those for polishing the hard iridium tips on fountain pen nibs, so they'll work a treat on steel.

Or just get a new nib. 

Andrew

[RD5]

Here are some a's that I wrote today. As you can see, there is no bleeding, but I have difficulty getting the ink to flow consistently. When it doesn't flow I push harder, but that doesn't seem to make a difference, except making it more likely to scratch.

[AAAndrew]

Ah, ink flow problems. Have you prepped your properly?

I have a couple of ideas and I’m sure others can chime in with their preferred method.

https://thesteelpen.com/2017/10/23/using-steel-pens-part-5-pen-prep-and-bits-and-pieces/

[RD5]

I have stuck it in a potato, brushed it with toothpaste and spit on it.

[Bianca M]

Perhaps your ink needs a few drops of water to help with flow?  If your nib is evenly coated and the ink is not beading up anywhere, you've prepped it properly, so your ink may need to be looked at next.

[RD5]

I got walnut ink, and that writes much better. It still sounds scratchy, is that unavoidable?

[AAAndrew]

Think of the sound as “feedback” and a part of writing with dip nibs. Quills are quieter, but not as quiet as fountain pens.